I just moved house and the local spot is known to be super mushy even when OH. Well, i needed my surf, so went in earlyish this morning.

Was in pain in these mushy wave with my mid length only could take off a bit on the late side when the set was hip high or more. Suddenly, a surfer offered me to try his 10' log.

Now, I had been wanting to try longboarding for a long time so of course I said yes.

Guy says "go for this one", and to my total disbelief the board took off on a super early early very mushy hip high wave. Well I wasn't used to the board, too much on front and pearled like the kook I am.

Second wave was knee high, also early and super mushy but the board still went, angled take off towards the peak to pick up speed, bottom turned super easy, and I glided like I never thought possible on such shit waves.

I didn't want to impose and gave the board back, but I know what my next purchase will be! I thought walking the board wasn't for me, even though I indulge in the occasional fake five when it's clean and not too big, but I could really get used to the glide.