Well that’s just war. That’s like, a Tuesday. It’s already policy to wage war whenever there’s an excuse. Not going to war — now that would be tough. Lowering avoidable deaths is the thing we have a problem with.
We haven’t passed the number of deaths that make Americans start to feel like the deaths aren’t acceptable and that we should make any minor sacrifice to prevent them. I don’t know what the number is, but it’s at least higher than 1 million over 2 years.
Better than antinography
“If you can’t handle having to do everything three times for no reason, then you’re not cut out to work here!”
I settled on OLÉ “Xtreme Wellness” high fiber wraps. They’re stretchy and they even toast/grill well. They’re good for sandwich wraps but also soft tacos and small burritos.
Do people not eat cheeseburgers? Like some ground beef, a nice condiment, some veg, and maybe a little sliced bacon, with a few fries or something?
This person’s problem can be solved by a sandwich. Takes like 3 minutes to make, or can be prepped earlier, no cooking necessary, has color, is fresh, not frozen, beats any fast food meal in price and quality. Also can even be healthy if you shop wisely. Can be different every day. Can be hot or cold. The possibilities are endless. Sandwiches are the best.
Concord: A Realm Reborn
I’m going to assume you’re using wired headphones and earbuds:
Every device will have a different sensitivity - IEMs, headphones, powered speakers, passive speakers, etc. and it varies wildly between different IEMs, different headphones, and so on.
That means every device requires a different amount of power to drive it. Your PC doesn’t know what device you’re using - it just outputs the same amount of power at the same volume level, and it’s up to you to adjust it to the appropriate level when you’re using a different device.
Now, different output jacks on the PC may output different relative levels even at the same volume setting. The headphone output will have a bit of extra power driving it, raising the level to drive passive wired headphones and earbuds, while the stereo output will have less power because it’s assuming that your speakers have their own separate power source - either built into powered speakers, or with a powered amplifier in the line between the PC and passive speakers.
Assuming you’re using the same jack for the earbuds and headphones, the volume difference is because your earbuds are more sensitive than your headphones. The earbuds require less power to drive, and the headphones require more power to drive. Windows simply spits out the same amount of power to the headphone jack at its volume setting, so the earbuds are louder and the headphones are quieter, even though they’re receiving the exact same amount of power.
If you don’t like adjusting windows volume, one solution is to get a USB headphone amp. Great headphone amps can be had for around $100 from brands like Topping, JDS Labs, Schiit, and more. It’s a competitive market so there are tons of options. This won’t even out the levels between devices, but it will put a nice volume knob at your fingertips, along with the jack itself for switching devices. Many of them also reroute audio to your speakers at the touch of a button. You’d then simply “mix” the volume level on your speakers to match your preferred knob position. Another bonus is that there’s no analog audio signal swimming around with the other noise in your PC, as it’s now leaving digitally over USB, so the audio quality is usually noticeably cleaner.
There are some old school and professional headphones that require headphone amps to drive, because even at 100% windows volume, most PCs will simply not output enough power. Whenever you’re shopping for passive headphones, you might see reviewers say things like “these headphones are easy to drive” or “hard to drive” - they’re referring to how much power is required to achieve acceptable listening levels, and advising whether you’ll need a beefy amp or not. Most consumer headphones these days are designed to be driven by weaker power sources like those found in phones and PCs. But again, it varies wildly - and what you’re experiencing is a small variation in power requirement between two devices.
I really thought I’d use it for utility when I built my new PC in 2020. I wanted it to get red and brighter when the temp went up after my old PC got fried from covid wfh video editing. But I just haven’t bothered messing with it. The new PC renders videos in <7 minutes vs the old 90+ mins. It’s not in any danger.
My keyboard and mouse do change to reflect the profile being used though (blue for desktop, red for FPS, purple for RPG). And my keys get bright and fade when being pressed, which is… neat I guess. It’s more of a “hey, G Hub and iCue got fucked up again” warning.
The 2023 victim fled from Russia with his father to escape being conscripted and dying in the Russian meat grinder, only to be violently killed by a shark at a paradise-looking beach in Egypt. That’s some Final Destination shit luck.
I am shocked, shocked I tell you. I truly believe this will be fixed before launch or shortly after. Surely it will be fixed sometime within the 1 year lifespan of the game. Surely they will fix it for the next COD game. Sur…
Sounds like someone put a bucket out to catch a leak
Yeah I agree it’s weird and unethical. Unfortunately that doesn’t mean it’s illegal.
I think it should be regulated at the federal level and everything that happens with a body donation should be transparent and traceable. That still wouldn’t affect the stuff that’s already in circulation and beyond identification though.
The article guy linked states that body donations are regulated at the state level, unlike organ donation. That means some states don’t regulate or poorly regulate body donations, and the organizations that accept donations are free to lie to donors and sell bodies and body parts to other organizations, like the military or who-the-fuck-knows. Without regulation, you can get some weirdo employee that just takes a skull after they’re done blowing up the body or studying it at Red State University and sells it privately.
Or it could be some weirdo died and his taxidermied great grandma from the box in the garage didn’t make the cut for the estate sale, so someone took it to the pawn shop. Watch the show Oddities. Fucked up shit gets bought and sold all the time.
I’m in the market for a new monitor. It’ll be used for gaming and browsing, but also light graphic design/video editing and lots of email- and document-writing, some spreadsheets, etc. My graphics work is not very color sensitive, and I have a “normal” $100 IPS monitor on the side to compare.
The two options that caught my eye so far:
BenQ Mobiuz EX3410R - 34” 21:9 1440p 144hz VA with 1000R curve (450 USD)
BenQ Mobiuz EX270QM - 27” 16:9 1440p 240hz IPS (570 USD)
I’m upgrading from a 24” Acer Predator XB253Q GX 1080p 240hz IPS, which I chose because I had a 90’s desk with a hutch that limited monitor size. I’ve been fairly happy with it despite a few quirks and low PPI, but that desk is going to the curb soon so it’s time for something bigger.
My PC is Ryzen 5800X3D, 32G RAM, RTX 4700 Ti. I predict my usual games will hover around 180-200 fps in QHD, and 120-140 in UWQHD.
I know I’d be happy with what would be a direct upgrade to a 27” 1440p version of my current monitor, but I’m feeling the pull toward the novelty of UW and curved. I've only had 16:9 and a few 16:10 flat monitors.
Here are my concerns about going UW curved:
-
Since I’m doing some WFH text and graphics, I want to make sure I won’t regret the leap. I think I’d get used to the curve, but I’ve heard that some VA panels can get a bit wonky with text.
-
While my graphics work is not very color sensitive, it sometimes is a little bit… I can’t be giving people jaundice, I mean. The Acer isn’t exactly perfect either, but it’s good enough. And I always check photos on my side monitor and my phone.
-
Whatever I choose will be my daily driver for probably 7+ years. I’m concerned that there will always be adjustments and compromises if I go curved. Meanwhile, flat 16:9 is fool-proof, but I’ll always suffer from grass-is-greener syndrome.
-
I know both of these options run the risk of backlight bleed - the VA because it’s large and curved, and the IPS because it’s IPS. The “IPS glow” doesn’t really bother me too much, but edge bleed would. I got lucky with my Acer - it’s pretty much solid black. I don’t know which would be more risky for developing backlight bleed.
-
The EX270QM is brighter and has much better color - bother a wider gamut and more accurate. I’m not sure if the curve and extra width will be a worthy trade-off, even if I love 21:9 curved. So, again, a different grass is greener problem.
-
I really enjoyed 240hz G-Sync smoothness, but I don’t play serious competitive stuff and I could downgrade to 144hz, as long as the other benefits are worth the trade-off. I also think QHD will hover around 180fps in my current games, and UWQHD around 140 maybe. I’d probably only get the full benefit of 240hz QHD in older games.
Do any of you own either of these or similar monitors? And even if not, please alleviate any of my concerns or try to sway me one way or another. If you have other recommendations in the $450-600 range, I’d welcome them too.
Edit - TL;DR: I’m torn and indecisive between 21:9 1440p curved VA and 16:9 1440p flat IPS. Color and quality are important, but so is gaming immersion. I yearn for something new from my 16:9 past, but I’m afraid I’ll fight with regret. I seek to learn from wisdom and experience. Please help.
This has been happening the past few weeks. I’ll look at my watch and see that it’s locked even though I haven’t taken it off, and sometimes I’ll catch it on the logo screen restarting.
I can’t seem to find any rhyme or reason for it. My wife has a series 7 on OS 10 and isn’t having this problem.
Anyone else having this issue on series 9 or other watch?
For the past several months I’ve been walking my dog (Cocker Spaniel) at least twice a day. We usually get about 2 total miles in. My neighborhood is an old racetrack and it’s a nice walking route.
I’ve also been using the time to train her to behave when strangers and other dogs pass us, and overall she’s been responding very well. She is scrappy like Spaniels tend to be, but she’s improved a lot - I can hold her attention and reward her with praise and a treat when we pass people and dogs and she doesn’t bark or growl, which is now most of the time - often even when there’s another dog that is reacting badly.
But there’s this one house… They have two medium/small dogs that are almost always left unattended in a fenced yard. They start barking at us before we turn the corner onto their road. The dogs are up against the fence, barking and snarling and nipping at each other. They are extremely loud and relentless. When the owners are present, it’s 50/50 if they scream at the dogs to stop or not, and even then it’s with mixed results. But lately they are just letting it go. I am getting the impression they are upset that someone dares to walk on the street past their house.
This is the only time I lose control of my dog. She behaves fine until we’re right at the fence, then she reacts by growling and lunging toward the fence, and eventually starts barking back. It was so bad a few days ago that I picked her up and faced her away, but she wriggled out of her harness and jumped off me. An Amazon truck had to stop to avoid hitting her, which I couldn’t even hear coming behind us because the other dogs were barking so loud. I was livid and embarrassed at the whole situation.
I’ve tried everything I can think of passing this house - stopping and holding tight till my dog stops reacting, which she does only until we start moving again, or holding the treat in front of her face to try to hold her attention, which doesn’t work. I’ve even thrown the treat away in front of her while she’s barking, which only makes me feel bad.
The obvious solution is to avoid walking past this house, but that would mean I can’t walk the loop. And at this point I don’t want to give the owners the satisfaction of intimidating me and other dog walkers away from walking on their street.
What other training methods can I use to help my dog ignore them? I’m afraid it’s just too much for her. Should I bother making a complaint? Any and all advice is appreciated.