Seems like my "fuck EA I'm not giving them money ever again" policy is beginning to pay off :)
I bought a Razer Basilisk 3 because it was the only mouse where I could reach both thumb buttons with the fingertip-ish grip I use. Wasn't fully supported by Linux software at first, but worst case I could program it on Windows which I had on a dual boot at the time. Now that I can use it with Polychromatic and OpenRazer it even works better on Linux. On Windows the Razer software won't let me save individual LED colours to the mouse, and needs to be running all the time in order to do that..
My guess is that Microsoft will provide their own kernel level anticheat to game developers, using a secure API which will be impossible to emulate with Wine etc.
We just had Windows Update brick itself due to a faulty update. The fix required updating them manually while connected to the office network, making them unusable for 2-3 hours. Another issue we've had is that Windows appears to be monopolizing virtualization HW acceleration for some memory integrity protection, which made our VMs slow and laggy. Fixing it required a combination of shell commands, settings changes and IT support remotely changing some permission, but the issue also comes back after some updates.
Though I've also had quite a lot of Windows problems at home, when I was still using it regularly. Not saying Linux usage has been problem free, but there I can at least fix things. Windows has a tendency to give unusable error messages and make troubleshooting difficult, and even when you figure out what's wrong you're at the mercy of Microsoft if you are allowed to change things on your own computer, due to their operating system's proprietary nature.
Already? I'm still using Fedora 39 since that's the only version supported by CUDA Toolkit :S
Article is written in a bit confusing way, but you'll most likely want to turn off Nvidia's automatic VRAM swapping if you're on Windows, so it doesn't happen by accident. Partial offloading with llama.cpp is much faster AFAIK if you want to split the model between GPU and CPU, and it's easier to find how many layers you can offload if it fails to load instead when you set it too high.
Also if you want to experiment partial offload, maybe a 12B around Q4 would be more interesting than the same 7B model with higher precision? I haven't checked if anything new has come out the last couple of months, but Mistral Nemo is fairly good IMO, though you might need to limit context to 4k or something.
S har gradvis bytt socialdemokrati mot nyliberalism.. Är det för att folk som bara är ute efter pengar och makt har lyckats arbeta sig upp inom partiet, och nu gör som de vill?
Det är väl en ganska central del av högerpolitik, att man ska lägga så lite pengar som möjligt på samhällsinvesteringar och offentlig sektor? Och såklart det behövdes nedskärningar för att finansiera jobbskatteavdrag, RUT och ROT. Kanske är en bidragande anledning att vi haft så ambivalent politik i landet senaste decennierna, att folk röstar med plånboken och sen blir förvånade och arga när samhället inte längre fungerar som det ska.
Mixtral in particular runs great with partial offloading, I used a Q4_K_M quant while only having 12GB VRAM.
To answer your original question I think it depends on the model and use case. Complex logic such as programming seems to suffer the most from quantization, while RP/chat can take much heaver quantization while staying coherent. I think most people think quantization around 4-5 bpw gives the best value, and you really get diminishing returns over 6 bpw so I know few who thinks it's worth using 8 bpw.
Personally I always use as large models as I can. With Q2 quantization the 70B models I've used occasionally give bad results, but often they feel smarter than 35B Q4. Though it's ofc. difficult to compare models from completely different families, e.g. command-r vs llama, and there are not that many options in the 30B range. I'd take a 35B Q4 over a 12B Q8 any day though, and 12B Q4 over 7B Q8 etc. In the end I think you'll have to test yourself, and see which model and quant combination you think gives best result at the inference speed you consider usable.
On Linux, AMD GPUs work significantly better than Nvidia ones. If you have a choice, choose an AMD
Unless you're interested in AI stuff, then Nvidia is still the best choice. Some libraries are HW accelerated on AMD, and hopefully more will work in the future.
Ofc I know it's not meant to be literal, but talking about killing black people or not is too direct. The subjects people like this usually want to talk about tend to be more layered, e.g. "what should we do about the Jew problem" so that if you take the bait you'll implicitly accept that "the Jew problem" exists to begin with.
Klart det alltid bara handlar om grova brott när lagar ska klubbas igenom. En dag kanske rikspolischefen börjar "tro att det skulle göra skillnad" om de också använde sitt nya fina system till att hålla koll på var alla medborgare befinner sig hela tiden, ifall någon skulle få för sig att begå ett brott i framtiden.
Jag tänker mer på den här delen:
"justitieminister Gunnar Strömmer (M) att Sverige kommer ställa sig bakom det omdiskuterade EU-förslaget"
Kan ju alltid hoppas att förslaget rinner ut i sanden, men partierna som håller med Ungern i frågan kommer fortfarande sitta på makten här i Sverige.
Behöver inte ens blanda in Ryssen, Ungern är en auktoritär stat som knappt har någon demokrati, de borde inte vara drivande i någon fråga gällande övriga EU-länders politik. Jag tycker det är skrämmande nog att idén om att man ska kunna ha ett privat samtal med släkt och vänner ses som något dåligt, och till och med portätteras som något farligt. Om makthavare tycker att alla konversationer online måste övervakas, är dom också emot att folk får ha privata konversationer IRL?
Har aldrig hört talas om någon Svensk lag/rättighet med liknande villkor, brukar vara mer svart på vitt. Skulle förstås kunna finnas men jag tycker det låter konstigt..
Cleaning the print surface with warm water and soap, and then avoiding touching it with your hands, is a good start if you haven't done so alreayd. Calibrating first layer height, flow rate, temperatures, etc. is generally the way, but if you want a quick and easy solution I gotta say that Magigoo has worked really well for me. It's a bit expensive, but I've reapplied it a few times and never have to wash the bed so that one bottle will likely last a lifetime. I think you can get similar results with a high PVA content glue stick or hair spray. And there are of course other 3d print glues which I haven't tried, I'm assuming they work equally well.
Var hittar man sån info? Jag letade en massa efter hur partierna röstat i de första vändorna, men jag fick bara upp ett par långa protokoll utan själva omröstningen.
Personally I'm not looking an OS that is "not so bad", the initial impression should be "this is great" :)
Ubuntu is kind of the “Windows” of the Linux world
That's also the thing, I switched to Linux because I hated using Windows, and I don't like how Microsoft operates. The last think I want is a distribution which tries to be Windows made by a company which tries to be Microsoft. It's of course an exaggeration, and Ubuntu doesn't do EEE and patent trolling as far as I know, but at least for me it feels like they're going in the wrong direction when they keep reinventing the wheel, forcing solutions that users don't want, and generally trying to create a "one size fits all" desktop. I'm not against it, Ubuntu is probably a good choice for some users, it just doesn't fit me. I used Xubuntu for many years, and I also tried both Gnome and Unity at different points, but currently I use Fedora KDE.
Har inte Kristersson också vid andra tillfällen kallat det för antisemitism när någon kritiserat Israel, eller tänker jag på någon annan Moderat?
I just spent half an hour trying to figure this out so I thought I'd write it down somewhere in case it helps someone else in the future.
Aslain's modpack contains a whole lot of quality-of-life mods for WoWs, for example Battle Expert (formerly known as Navigator) which shows the exact relative angles between your ship and the enemy's. Almost feels like cheating to me, but Wargaming has endorsed this modpack and it even has a dedicated channel on the official discord server. Theoretically you have the same information without the mod, but it can be difficult to see how a ship is turning or changing speed by just looking at it.
These instructions are for when the game is installed through Steam, which looks like it uses some kind of overlay filesystem. This led to that the game install folder didn't show up for the modpack installer when I tried other methods.
- Install protontricks, I used the version available in Fedora's repos.
- Download the modpack installer from the official site
- Find the WoWs install folder in Steam. Right-click World of Warships in the Steam games list, select Manage and "Browse local files" and the folder should open in your default file manager.
- In a terminal, run the modpack installer .exe file in the game's Wine prefix. I'm not entirely sure this makes any difference compared to running it in a new prefix as long as it can access the game files, it mostly seemed convenient to me. The app id for WoWs is 552990 and it should never change, but you can get it with
protontricks -lif you're curious. Change the file path so that it matches the file you downloaded and run:protontricks-launch --appid 552990 ~/Downloads/Aslains_WoWs_Modpack_Installer_v.13.6.1_01.exeIt will print a lot of "failed to create" error messages for system dlls and exes, but that appears to be normal, and the setup window should open after a while. - After some release notes etc. the installer will eventually ask you for the game's install dir. As far as I can tell, the game files do not show up anywhere on C:, but Steam mounts your Linux file system on Z: so we can use that instead. Browse to the game install folder, which we located in step 3, and select it. My install folder on Linux is
/mnt/faststore/SteamLibrary/steamapps/common/World of Warships/so I selectZ:\mnt\faststore\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\World of Warshipsin the modpack installer. - Either manually select the mods you want or use the recommended selection. As I wrote before, many for these mods feel like they give you an in-game advantage over other players, but WG has said they're legal...
- The first time I ran the installer it hung on "Finishing installation". It appears to happen to a few Windows users too but the mod dev doesn't know what causes it. I noticed that there was a cleanup process running in Wine
C:\windows\system32\cmd.exe /C DEL /s /f *.origwhich shouldn't take so long time so I killed it (in Linux) and the installer continued. The next time I ran it this didn't happen, and it only took a few seconds to finish the installation.
If you have the game installed as standalone, e.g. Lutris, then I think you can just run the modpack installer in the same Wine prefix, and you should see the game's install folder under C:\Program Files as you would on Windows. I.e. select the game in Lutris, click the tiny arrow next to the wine glass button and select "Run EXE inside Wine prefix" and then choose the installer you downloaded. But I haven't done this so I promise nothing.
Please don't take this as an endorsement of World of Warships, I borderline hate this game and only play it because some of my friends are obsessed with it. The gameplay is a bit too slow paced for my taste, there are a lot of hard counters which you can't do anything about in random matchmaking, and carriers (planes) can turn any game into pure suffering. I also dislike the game's monetization scheme, lootboxes are expensive and most have a tiny chance to give something really good and a big chance to give you complete garbage. The game might be f2p, but at higher tiers it becomes unplayable without a premium subscription (€10/month) since ship maintenance gets more expensive than your earnings. To maximize your ship's performance you need a high level captain, expensive modules and also buffs which are consumed each game. My friend tries to argue that the game is not pay-to-win because you can also grind ingame resources to buy those, but you'll spend many hours playing at a disadvantage if you don't buy your way past it. Just my personal opinion of course.
If you despite my warnings felt an urge to try this game (honestly I thought it was quite fun at lower tiers) then check if any of your friends are already playing it and ask them for a referral code. Both of you get free stuff from being recruited by someone else and once you've created an account it's too late, unless you stop playing completely for 3 months. If you do that it is possible for your friend to send you a recruiting link if you want to start playing again.
Just a heads up, I've read that it's impossible to connect an existing wargaming.net account to a Steam account on Linux, so make sure you authenticate through Steam when you create the account if you plan on playing it through Steam. Though if you have Windows dual boot then I think you can link the accounts there if you need to.
Going through some boxes and found a stack of old White Dwarf. I'll keep the first issue I ever bought as a memory but planning to get rid of the rest. Just wanted to check if there are people collecting these before they go into the recycling bin. If anyone's interested I can make a list of which ones I have, and I'll send them to anyone willing to pay for postage. Located in Sweden.
Any games with less than 1000 total Steam reviews you've enjoyed and thought more people ought to know about? Not a hard limit, just a guideline for what could be classified as "undiscovered" on Steam, assuming it wasn't released yesterday.
I would recommend:
- Full Bore, a cute block-based puzzle platformer. Solid mechanics, level designs and even a somewhat engaging story.
Unfortunately hasn't been on a sale since 2021 according to steampricehistory.com, while it was frequently reduced to €2-3 before that. Not sure I'd recommend it to everybody at full price, but IMO it's one of the best indie platformers I've played.edit: Did someone email the creator of Full Bore or something? It's suddenly on sale again, for the first time in ages :) Go buy it!
I have calibrated my monitors to create icc profiles, they show up in KDE color management and everything used to work exactly as it should. Now every time I start my computer it goes like this:
- I log in to my account
- It shows my desktop, with the right colour correction.
- After a few seconds the colours revert to look un-calibrated on both monitors.
- I restart the colord service and it loads the colour correction again.
As an alternative to step 4, if I go to KDE colour settings, select the default profile and then back to my profile then it also starts looking good again.
This problem must've started a week or two ago, but unfortunately I haven't been able to pinpoint exactly when. I haven't touched anything related to colour management in months, and don't think I've done any changes to my system other than upgrading packages.
Can't see anything colour related in the syslog except colord loading the correct profiles. I removed all the old profiles that I wasn't using anyway. I removed dispcal's profile loader from autostart to make sure it wasn't interfering with something. The profiles are both installed system wide and in my user folder.
Using Fedora 39 KDE.
Anyone have any idea what could be wrong, or even how to debug this?
Ferocious Alpine warfare will test your tactical skills in this authentic WW1 FPS. Battle among the scenic peaks, rugged valleys and idyllic towns of northern Italy. The Great War on the Italian Front is brought to life and elevated to unexpected heights!
Only played it for an hour but it's pretty good so far, if you like this type of gameplay. Feels somewhere in between Hell Let Loose and Battlefield 1. Native Linux version.
Maybe I'm using the wrong terms, but what I'm wondering is if people are running services at home that they've made accessible from the internet. I.e. not open to the public, only so that they can use their own services from anywhere.
I'm paranoid a f when it comes to our home server, and even as a fairly experienced Linux user and programmer I don't trust myself when it comes to computer security. However, it would be very convenient if my wife and I could access our self-hosted services when away from home. Or perhaps even make an album public and share a link with a few friends (e.g. Nextcloud, but I haven't set that up yet).
Currently all our services run in docker containers, with separate user accounts, but I wouldn't trust that to be 100% safe. Is there some kind of idiot proof way to expose one of the services to the internet without risking the integrity of the whole server in case it somehow gets compromised?
How are the rest of you reasoning about security? Renting a VPS for anything exposed? Using some kind of VPN to connect your phones to home network? Would you trust something like Nextcloud over HTTPS to never get hacked?
The only Linux questions community I found appears to be locked, so I hope it's ok to ask here..
For a very long time I've had the issue that occasionally, perhaps 1 out of 40 boots, my mouse does not work once the OS starts. The mouse appears to turn on during POST/BIOS/GRUB, then it goes dark again while the OS is booting, and to make it turn back on I have to crawl under the desk, unplug it and plug it back in. 39 times out of 40 (approximately) it just goes dark briefly and turns on in time for the OS. The mouse also works just fine in UEFI.
This happens in Xubuntu, Fedora and Windows, and with two different mice from different manufacturers. I've also upgraded the motherboard twice and pretty much every component in the computer. The only thing that's always has been there is GRUB, which is why I suspect it could be involved.
It happens so rarely that I never really bothered to try to find a solution for it, but it is kinda annoying when it happens.
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/1396665
> I'm about to invest in some "prosumer" level 18V power tools, e.g. Makita, Dewalt, Metabo, etc. The general consensus appears to be that they're all more or less equal and it doesn't matter much which brand one goes with, but a few years ago I developed tinnitus which has made me more sensitive to high frequency sounds. And having tested a few cordless drill drivers at various hardware stores I can definitely tell they're not equal when it comes to what the noise sounds like, even if they measure similarly in sound pressure level. > > Currently I have a Ryobi 18V brushless that I measure to 83-84 dB(c) at 1m which makes it pretty loud, and it also has a quite a quite high pitched sound which makes it worse. Looking at a spectrogram from a calibrated measurement mic there's a pretty clear peak at 6kHz. The drill drivers I've been looking at all have a rated sound pressure level (Lp) around 76 dB so they should already be noticeably less loud, but I'm hoping to find one without those high frequencies if possible. > > I've been able to test a few drills in person and got some initial impressions. Unfortunately the local hardware stores have a pretty limited selection of brands, they don't have all models in the store, and you usually have to bother the staff if you want to try something with batteries in it. At first I thought I could remember my subjective opinion of different drivers, but when I later got the opportunity to re-compare two of them head to head I realised I have really bad memory.. > > Head-to-head comparisons that I've done: > > Makita DDF484 vs Dewalt DCD791: The Makita has a very high frequency whine, kind of like dentist's drill. The Dewalt is probably just as loud, but a little lower pitch making the noise slightly more tolerable, while still not great. > > Makita DDF484 vs 485 vs 486: When it comes to high pitched noise, 484 was worst, followed by 485, and the 486 was most tolerable. > > Dewalt DCD791 vs DC800: The 800 had a more high pitched noise than the 791, once again reminding me of the dentist's drill. > > Not compared with anything, so only subjective impression: > > Hikoki (a.k.a. Metabo HPT in USA) DV18DD and Dewalt DCD777: Smaller and weaker tools but much more quiet than everything else. If I were going to buy 2 drill drivers I'd probably get something like these plus one larger for heavier work. > > Metabo (the made in Germany, non-HPT, brand) DS 18 LT BL: Only had a quick try with this machine but without having anything to compare it with I thought it sounded pretty reasonably tolerable. There's a version with quick change chucks, unfortunately only the smaller (L) and larger (LTX) models have offset and angle chucks for some reason but that's a feature I would really like to have. > > Anyone compared Milwaukee to other brands with respect to noise? The only store I found that sells them said they didn't have any charged batteries so I couldn't try any. > > Not exactly sure what I'm expecting from this post, since the question is so subjective.. Perhaps someone with experience of multiple cordless drill drivers could share their opinion? Or someone else with a similar aversion to high pitched noises could say if they found any tool that they're happy with?
I'm about to invest in some "prosumer" level 18V power tools, e.g. Makita, Dewalt, Metabo, etc. The general consensus appears to be that they're all more or less equal and it doesn't matter much which brand one goes with, but a few years ago I developed tinnitus which has made me more sensitive to high frequency sounds. And having tested a few cordless drill drivers at various hardware stores I can definitely tell they're not equal when it comes to what the noise sounds like, even if they measure similarly in sound pressure level.
Currently I have a Ryobi 18V brushless that I measure to 83-84 dB(c) at 1m which makes it pretty loud, and it also has a quite a quite high pitched sound which makes it worse. Looking at a spectrogram from a calibrated measurement mic there's a pretty clear peak at 6kHz. The drill drivers I've been looking at all have a rated sound pressure level (Lp) around 76 dB so they should already be noticeably less loud, but I'm hoping to find one without those high frequencies if possible.
I've been able to test a few drills in person and got some initial impressions. Unfortunately the local hardware stores have a pretty limited selection of brands, they don't have all models in the store, and you usually have to bother the staff if you want to try something with batteries in it. At first I thought I could remember my subjective opinion of different drivers, but when I later got the opportunity to re-compare two of them head to head I realised I have really bad memory..
Head-to-head comparisons that I've done:
Makita DDF484 vs Dewalt DCD791: The Makita has a very high frequency whine, kind of like dentist's drill. The Dewalt is probably just as loud, but a little lower pitch making the noise slightly more tolerable, while still not great.
Makita DDF484 vs 485 vs 486: When it comes to high pitched noise, 484 was worst, followed by 485, and the 486 was most tolerable.
Dewalt DCD791 vs DC800: The 800 had a more high pitched noise than the 791, once again reminding me of the dentist's drill.
Not compared with anything, so only subjective impression:
Hikoki (a.k.a. Metabo HPT in USA) DV18DD and Dewalt DCD777: Smaller and weaker tools but much more quiet than everything else. If I were going to buy 2 drill drivers I'd probably get something like these plus one larger for heavier work.
Metabo (the made in Germany, non-HPT, brand) DS 18 LT BL: Only had a quick try with this machine but without having anything to compare it with I thought it sounded pretty reasonably tolerable. There's a version with quick change chucks, unfortunately only the smaller (L) and larger (LTX) models have offset and angle chucks for some reason but that's a feature I would really like to have.
Anyone compared Milwaukee to other brands with respect to noise? The only store I found that sells them said they didn't have any charged batteries so I couldn't try any.
Not exactly sure what I'm expecting from this post, since the question is so subjective.. Perhaps someone with experience of multiple cordless drill drivers could share their opinion? Or someone else with a similar aversion to high pitched noises could say if they found any tool that they're happy with?
I've been toying with the idea of replacing all my old, mostly corded, power tools with a single 18V system and like many others I'm trying to decide between Makita and Dewalt. They seem to be pretty even and most recommendations boil down to "pick the colour you like best".
However I bought a subscription to a magazine that does a lot of product testing, and saw that they gave all Makita drills the lowest rating in the "expected battery life time" category because they only lasted 300 charging cycles out of the 400 they do as part of the test. Now 300 cycles is quite a lot for a home DIY:er, but is battery life something that Makita owners have had issues with? I can't remember seeing anyone complaining about it when looking for user reviews and comments. However I do have a vague memory of some pros complaining about Makita "smart" tools shutting down supposedly because they detect that something might break, thus forcing the owner to hand it in for service.
Article in Swedish, and probably paywalled.
edit: Since I doing a bit of testing how annoying (i.e. mostly how high pitched) different drill drivers sound, which hopefully could be useful to someone else, I've updated the title to include this.
-V.B.S.S.- Value Buster Subwoofer System As the title implies this design allows you to get lots of bass from an inexpensive driver and an easy to build enclosure, the economical design also allow for multiple cabinets to be powered from a single amplifier for massive output without breaking the
Been thinking about adding a little bit of bass to the home cinema system, both for watching movies (i.e. LFE) and to support the bookshelf sized front speakers. Was hoping to not spend too much money, but I also don't want something that sounds bad, or only provides rumble without much distinction to different sounds. Got a medium sized room which I've estimated to 67m³ (2350 cubic feet) so I'm leaning towards dual subs.
Current options I'm considering:
- Pre-built subs, probably XTZ 12.17 Edge
- DIY Dayton Audio 15" flat pack, with either RSS310HF-4 or HO-4
- DIY VBSS with GRS 18PT-8 18"
The total cost for either option would be around €1500, since I would need to buy some power tools to build the VBSS.
From what I've read the VBSS is supposed to sound fairly good, especially in the mid-bass region, while lacking some very low bass compared to the DA Reference and Ultimax drivers.
Anyone have some experience with the above subs, primarily the VBSS?