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Tuesday SOTD Thread - April 9th, 2024
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 Open Comb
    Blade: Gillette - Nacet (Marathon) (543)
    Lather: 345 Soap Co - General Patton
    Brush: Declaration Grooming - B7 Viking Ivory (4 uses)
    Post Shave: Barrister and Mann - Diamond


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    Trying out 345 soap with the Slurry method and it was inconclusive. Need to get more soap involved.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 - Open Comb ::: Gillette - Nacet - M ‹543 uses›)

    As usual, with this blade now: a little tuggy at first, but fine after, and giving a close shave.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 2 out of 5 (Okay)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (345 Soap Co - General Patton)

    Them: "In what seems like a lifetime ago, I was in the 82nd Airborne. So we wanted to do something special for the August soap, General Patton. Our namesake. A long time ago my late grandfather said that somewhere down the line uncle George and I were related. One day I'll make that lineage. We will be donating 10% of all General Patton sales in August to them."

    Scent notes: Tonka bean, amber, powder, guaiac wood, cedar, sandalwood, dash of vanilla. "This is a warm, complex scent. A scent of Victory!"

    345 also says, "We wanted to give back to those that have served our great nation, and the charity ‘Mission 22’ would be a great place to start. Their mission is to help all veterans with suicide prevention, and any mental health help that they need."

    Scent: My first use of this one was a blind one, and I picked up the amber and tonka type scent, and woodiness. I also thought I got some leather, but I guess it was something else. I can see how there was a touch of vanilla in there, but it wasn't much, and didn't feel food-like at all. Just right.

    An at-home kind of warmth, and manliness, is the vibe I got from this soap. I enjoyed it a lot.

    Lather... soap hadn't been used in a while and didn't give itself to the brush too easily. So lather was watery and thin. Will try again later, probably with another brush.

    Got the job done, though. But no residual slickness like this slurry lather method usually gives.

    Hydration: Dry End of Perfect (for me)

    • = 4 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Declaration Grooming - B7 Viking Ivory ‹4 uses›)

    Not as much soap was picked up, so the lather was very wet, but not much substance. That needs to be adjusted. So the backbone of the brush was in full display.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Just a little tugging
      Neck: Just a little tugging
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Close Shave
      Neck: Several hairs are showing some tip length (still a pretty good shave)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

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    Monday SOTD Thread - March 18th, 2024
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 Open Comb
    Blade: Gillette - Nacet (Marathon) (542)
    Lather: Black Ship Grooming - X Tenth Anniversary
    Brush: Declaration Grooming - B7 Viking Ivory (3 uses)
    Post Shave: Summer Break Soaps - History 101


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    Will the base from Blackship Grooming work with the Slurry Lather method? Yep, sure enough. Works great.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 - Open Comb ::: Gillette - Nacet - M ‹542 uses›)

    As usual for the Nacet: tuggy on pass 1, then fine after. Close shave.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 2 out of 5 (Okay)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Black Ship Grooming - X Tenth Anniversary)

    Them: "Pineapple, bay rum, and cedarwood"

    Me: fruity, yes, and I'm glad to say I didn't pick up much of the bay. light woody to balance it out. Very pleasant, but not complex.

    Scent Strength: 4/10, lightly present during shaving.

    Lather... This base worked well with the Slurry Lather method.

    On the third or fourth pass, I did add a bit more water. and my last pass was able to be worked into that final creamy lather to top it off with some luxury feel.

    With all the hydration this method uses, I think it puts this base in a very good light.

    • 16 sec load with a Very Wet brush
    • = 5 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Declaration Grooming - B7 Viking Ivory ‹3 uses›)

    Comfy and pretty easy to splay.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Just a little tugging
      Neck: Just a little tugging
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Close Shave
      Neck: Several hairs are showing some tip length (still a pretty good shave)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

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    Tuesday SOTD Thread - Dec. 26, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 Open Comb
    Blade: Gillette - Nacet (Marathon) (540)
    Lather: Wholly Kaw Vegan - 1776
    Brush: Semogue - Owner's Club Boar (Shedder) (21 uses)
    Post Shave: Barrister and Mann - Full Measure of Man


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    A quick shave with the Slurry lather using the Wholly Kaw Vegan base today.

    Using the phone's camera, instead of my fogged up mirror to shave.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 - Open Comb ::: Gillette - Nacet - M ‹540 uses›)

    A little tuggy on first pass, since I skipped a day of shaving. But fine after that.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 2 out of 5 (Okay)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Wholly Kaw Vegan - 1776)

    Them: "a summer blend perfect for saluting the Fourth of July. It is a refreshing green aroma with notes of osmanthus, benzoin, labdanum, grapefruit, artemisia, tarragon, patchouli, musk, tonka bean, cedarwood."

    Me: I did a blind shave with it first, not knowing the notes. I just know that i really enjoyed it.

    Scent Strength: 4/10, present during shaving.

    Lather... Likely my final verification that the WK Vegan base is very compatible with the slurry lather method.

    Nice, sloppy slick slurry for passes 1 & 2. 3rd is still highly wet, but was still super slick.

    Hydration: Perfect (for me)

    • = 3 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Semogue - Owner's Club Boar - Shedder ‹21 uses›)

    The SOC is a great brush, espeically for the slurry lather method. This one has had a year of uses by someone else, but is not nearly as split as mine that has many less uses, but has been treated with the hair dryer.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Just a little tugging
      Neck: Just a little tugging
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Close Shave
      Neck: Several hairs are showing some tip length (still a pretty good shave)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

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    Saturday SOTD Thread - December 23, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 Open Comb
    Blade: Gillette - Nacet (Marathon) (538)
    Lather: Wholly Kaw Vegan - 1776
    Brush: Stirling - Finest CravingtShaving Blue Slate 26mm (42 uses)
    Post Shave: Barbedeaux - Razor Bump Therapy


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    Trying the Slurry Lather again with the Stirling Finest Badger and Wholly Kaw vegan formulation. STill not quite right.

    I also tried a couple of Barbedeaux products for the first time. I tried the shaving foam as a pre-shave face wash, and I hated the slime it left on my hands.

    I also used the splash at the end, and did not like the nasty rubbing alcohol scent... that I've never experienced with folks like Stirling, BaM, Mammoth, Summer Break, Declaration, Proraso .. well, anyone. And the way it conditioned my skin with the food that it has in it (hey, at least there is some) didn't seem to be any better than any of these others. At full price, buying 2 bottles of Stirling is a way better deal, because no alc hit, and you can get scent choice (Barb is basically unscented).

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 - Open Comb ::: Gillette - Nacet - M ‹538 uses›)

    Tuggy since i was shaving off two days of growth. But after the first pass, allw as comfy. Got a close shave.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 2 out of 5 (Okay)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Wholly Kaw Vegan - 1776)

    Them: "a summer blend perfect for saluting the Fourth of July. It is a refreshing green aroma with notes of osmanthus, benzoin, labdanum, grapefruit, artemisia, tarragon, patchouli, musk, tonka bean, cedarwood."

    Me: I did a blind shave with it first, not knowing the notes. I just know that i really enjoyed it.

    Scent Strength: 4/10, present during shaving.

    Lather... I'd guess I loaded for 80 swirls: 70 at start, and then a refresher later.

    So I did have to go back and get more soap and a little more water, but with the Slurry method, that's really a small thing.

    But it still is not coming together how The SL method usually does. I see two possible culprits: the brush may be so dense that it doesn't hold as much water as needed, which I think is less likely than... or that the soap just needs more product than usual. That is something I've experienced wtih WK in the past, but I can't remember whether it was vegan or tallow at the time.

    I'm going to change one of those variables for next time.

    Hydration: Dry End of Perfect (for me)

    • 27 sec load with a Very Wet brush
    • = 4 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Stirling - Finest in CravingShaving Blue Slate 26mm ‹42 uses›)

    Firm backbone, but somewhat soft tips, as usual. Brush seemed to start out with enough water, but when I needed it in the second pass, not much was there.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Tuggy
      Neck: Tuggy
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Close Shave
      Neck: Several hairs are showing some tip length (still a pretty good shave)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

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    Thursday SOTD Thread - October 19, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 Open Comb
    Blade: Gillette - Nacet (Marathon) (537)
    Lather: Barrister and Mann Omnibus - Smoking Bishop
    Brush: Maggard Razors - Plisson-type Synth 22mm (4 uses)
    Post Shave: Pre de Provence - No. 63


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    Final confirmation of the Maggards Plisson Synth doing a great Slurry Lather with Omnibus base.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 - Open Comb ::: Gillette - Nacet - M ‹537 uses›)

    Same as usual with this old Nacet: maybe a tiny bit tuggy on first pass, but great afterwards. more passes were necessary if I wanted a better shave today, but I was fine with 3. Decent shave. Comfy. No irritation.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 2 out of 5 (Okay)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Barrister and Mann Omnibus - Smoking Bishop)

    Them: "A Christmas Carol creates a particular image: cobbled London streets, swollen with carts and men in top hats and street urchins, all milling and shouting and running in the cold December air. You can practically feel the chill, see the clouds of steam as the crowds breathe, and hear the din of a thousand lives all playing out in the same space. It's a vivid, intensely nostalgic picture, one almost irrevocably associated with its author. ~ The story makes particular reference to a Victorian mulled wine known as 'Smoking Bishop,' so named because it's served heated to steaming, but not boiling, and drunk from warmed bowls or glasses (before you ask, we have no idea where the bishop part comes in). It's one of our favorite holiday punches here at Barrister and Mann"

    "The soap version is a smooth, warm blend of wine, orange, grapefruit, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and pipe tobacco that conjures images of sipping a stiff drink near a roaring hearth, the air redolent with the scents and sounds of food and drink and good company. Effortlessly charming and good-natured"

    Me: I enjoyed it. I picked up on a little vanilla, and some spices, which I assume are the cinnamon and nutmeg. They were well-blended and not so spicy that I didn't like it.

    I didn't pick up on any tobacco or wine notes in the fairly blind first impression, so those notes are not strong. But I did notice something like anise or oud, or in that family, that may have been the blend of those two. It grounded the whole thing and kept it interesting and from being just a flavor focused, monotone scent. I liked it.

    But on my second shave with this soap, I did pick up the wine around the 3rd pass. A note has to gradually open up, it seems.

    Scent Strength: 6/10, nicely present during shaving.

    Lather... Great slurry lather today with the pair, the brush and this soap. Slurry in pass 1 and then it got more mature as we went through 3 passes. Super slick and fast.

    I tried the new method of loading until the soap overflowed the tub a little, and that worked out great for getting enough soap for the shave.

    Hydration: Perfect (for me)

    • 13 sec load with a Very Wet brush
    • = 5 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Maggard Razors - Plisson-type Synth 22mm ‹4 uses›)

    Not too bad with this brush this time. I still like my naturals better, though. Since this knot doesn't hold as much water as some, I made sure to load without shaking any water out of it. That's the secret with this one.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Felt blade but comfortable
      Neck: Felt blade but comfortable
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Close Shave
      Neck: Several hairs are showing some tip length (still a pretty good shave)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

    3
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    Wednesday SOTD Thread - Oct 04, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Wolfman - WR2 Solid Bar .85 Brushed
    Blade: Gillette - Platinum (10)
    Lather: Barrister and Mann Omnibus - Four Horsemen - War
    Brush: Thater - 4125-6 Fan Ivory (9 uses)
    Post Shave: Pre de Provence - No. 63


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    Slurry Lather with Omnibus today, and trying a huge badger as well. I'll load more next time, but I have full faith that these are great.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Wolfman - WR2 SB .85 Brushed ::: Gillette - Platinum ‹10 uses›)

    Great combo! Just a tiny bit of blade feel, and excellent glide for the close cut.

    Confirming here that for me, the Platinum works great in the Wolfman WR2 after just a day's growth.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 4 out of 5 (Very Good)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Barrister and Mann Omnibus - Four Horsemen - War)

    Them: "War is the strangest and, in some respects, the darkest of the four fragrances. Characterized by the aromas of hot metal and gunpowder laid over the core chypre accord that represents Death, the full fragrance encompasses notes of metal, aldehydes, gunpowder, leather, citrus, resins, clary sage, and amber. The peculiar, unsettlingly clean aroma of ozone and gun oil hangs over the scent of War like smoke on a battlefield, belying the foul, elemental hunger beneath."

    Scent: The first time I used this soap, I had not heard that this soap smells like a certain herb to a bunch of people. Knowing that, the second time I used it, that still didn't bother me. It wasn't an exact match, and my brain was able to keep it separate, and focus on the elements of hot metal, gunpowder, resins, and moss. It seems that all those together smell like that herb, as it turns out.

    That odd situation, where the sum of some parts makes something totally unintentional, reminds me of that other soap he made a couple of years ago, that smelled exactly like Copenhagen chewing tobacco.

    Staying power: I did not notice anything different than other soaps by Will.

    Scent Strength: 7/10, nicely present during shaving.

    Lather... This soap hadn't been used in a while. So 50 swirls was not quite enough to gather enough soap with this brush.

    I loaded a bit more, and gave it a little more water too.

    I had three slick passes in pretty short order, but I'll increase load time to make the process a bit smoother next time.

    Omnibus here is not going to be a problem for Slurry Lather fans, I'm certain.

    Hydration: Dry End of Perfect (for me)

    • 17 sec load with a Very Wet brush
    • = 4 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Thater - 4125-6 Fan Ivory 35mm ‹9 uses›)

    Not loading quite enough is very evident with such a big brush. It felt good, and I think proved that it won't take much for this thing to work well with the Slurry Lather technique.

    However, one thing jumps out at me. The chief advantage of the Slurry Lather is speed in your shave. For guys who are short on time, and just need to get on to the next thing. Well, a super thick/dense/big brush like this one might be the opposite of what you would normally want for speed! Takes a while to rinse out all the suds at the end of the shave.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Almost Smooth
      Neck: Almost Smooth
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Near BBS - About as close as I'll ever get
      Neck: Cut flush to where I just see the tips (above average for me)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

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    Friday SOTD Thread - Sep 29, 2023
  • Well, if you're going to try to find a razor to match the blade, the Personna 74 is the one, for sure.

    And the cool thing is that you end up learning different things by doing that.

    4
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    Friday SOTD Thread - Sep 29, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Weck - Sextoblade
    Blade: Kismet - Hair Shaper (2)
    Lather: Noble Otter - Oudyood
    Brush: Zenith - Horse Extra Soft (507N XS) (16 uses)
    Post Shave: Stirling - Agar


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    We work with the Weck, w'again. Keeping with the horse brush, and trying Noble Otter with the Slurry Lather method. Though requiring a little more loading, it went very well.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Weck - Sextoblade ::: Kismet - Hair Shaper ‹2 uses›)

    I discovered that my daughter was naughty and used my weck and the Kismet blade to cut on one of our towels (and probably more that she's not fessing up to). I think I really felt that lack of sharpness today.

    A lot of stubble was removed, but I attacked several spots from multiple angles, with little success. I'll bet she would have dulled the center of the blade, because I think the toe and heel were still pretty sharp, because they trimmed up near my ears and goatee edge quite well.

    But, all in all I'm happy with my Weck shave and burgeoning technique. No weepers or cuts. No nicking near the ears or on high spots. And good comfort. A nice, conservative shave, with this risky tool.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 2 out of 5 (Okay)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Noble Otter - Oudyood)

    Scent: To me, a light oud and woody scent. I guess that's the intention. I did enjoy it.

    Scent Strength: 4/10, lightly present during shaving.

    Lather... If I would have started with more loading, I think this would have been fine from the start as a Slurry Lather. The horse is also affecting things, but the lather worked out just fine.

    I'll do more with Noble Otter and other brushes for sure, just to confirm that it works well with the Slurry style.

    Hydration: Perfect (for me)

    • 40 sec load with a Very Wet brush
    • = 4 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Zenith - Horse Extra Soft - 507N XS ‹16 uses›)

    So the horse brush again started out a little weak. This time, it was due to not enough soap in it. Easy enough to fix, right? I loaded for a total of 120 swirls, or roughly 40 seconds.

    I think the easy splay of this brush was part of the problem, but I did switch soaps to one that hasn't been used for a while. That's what you get when you change too many variables at once! :-)

    But it was easy to save the lather by revisiting the tub for that third 40 swirls.

    Obviously, will need more testing with Noble Otter, just to confirm, but I'm sure it'll be fine with the Slurry Lather method.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Felt blade but comfortable
      Neck: Felt blade but comfortable
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Bad Shave
      Neck: Many hairs show whisker tips with a little length to them


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

    4
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    Thursday SOTD Thread - Sep 28, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Timeless - Titanium .68 Solid Bar
    Blade: Wilkinson Sword (India) (1)
    Lather: Fine Accoutrements - Aquamarine
    Brush: Zenith - Horse Extra Soft (507N XS) (15 uses)
    Post Shave: Stirling - Dunshire


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    Testing the Slurry Lather method with a Horse brush, and the excellent classic hard puck from Fine Accoutrements. Spoiler: an excellent shave.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Timeless - Titanium .68 - Solid Bar ::: Wilkinson Sword - India ‹1 uses›)

    This was a great use, because the WS blade is a really cheap one, and the Timeless head design grips so well, that it makes sure I get a great shave, even on a budget blade.

    Barely any blade feel, and super close result!

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 4 out of 5 (Very Good)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Fine Accoutrements - Aquamarine)

    Them: "an exceptionally relaxing green-aquatic fragrance developed in collaboration with West Coast Shaving"

    "Aquamarine evokes the carefree feeling of relaxing sea-side, under a warm sun, accompanied only by the rhythmic sound of the surf."

    "Notes: lemon, sweet orange, rosemary, algae, oakmoss, driftwood, amber, musk"

    Scent (Me): citrus, rosemary, wood, musk. fresh green aquatic.

    Scent Strength: 4/10, lightly present during shaving.

    Lather... Yes, the horse and Fine Accoutrements classic hard puck soap work very well with the Slurry Lather method.

    Slurry on pass one, then pass two was almost a mature lather, and then pass 3 needed a bit more water, since I don't think I started out with quite enough.

    Super slick lather at each stage, providing the excellent glide that the Fine base always gives me. Just the kind of slickness that I love.

    I did have to dip the tips in pass 1 because I don't think I started out with enough water in the brush.

    Hydration: Perfect (for me)

    • 13 sec load with a Very Wet brush
    • = 5 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Zenith - Horse Extra Soft - 507N XS ‹15 uses›)

    So, today I learned that the Slurry lather is going to tell you the brutal truth about your brush.. at least in terms of the tip feel.

    Lather with any kind of viscosity will hide exactly how firm your tips are by a certain degree. And there's nothing wrong with that.

    But I felt a little prickle with this horse brush, that I only felt before at the very start. So I added that little note to my growing data for the Slurry Lather method.

    This horse, and probably most horse brushes, are more regular density, and it performed similarly as my regular density badgers, which is to say that it worked with the slurry method very well.

    But on average, it seems that horses don't have as many tips as badgers, so the water wasn't as concentrated toward the tips, so a quick dip in water was needed during the first pass. Maybe not shaking out as much water would have the same result.

    But the brush had plenty of lather for three passes, probably four or more.

    A more mature lathering method is going to be more comfy with the horse, but at least now we know that if you need to whip up a slurry lather for a speedy shave, a horse is a quick option, pun intended.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Almost Smooth
      Neck: Felt blade but comfortable
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Near BBS - About as close as I'll ever get
      Neck: Near BBS - About as close as I'll ever get


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

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    Wednesday SOTD Thread - Sep 27, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Fatip - Grande (Open Comb)
    Blade: Gillette - Platinum (8)
    Lather: Declaration Grooming Milksteak - Sunrise on Lasalle
    Brush: Whipped Dog - Angel Hair Green Handle 24mm (2 uses)
    Post Shave: Barrister & Mann - Reserve Spice


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    So, the Slurry Lather works well with a Synthetic brush, and with the current base from Declaration Grooming: Milksteak.

    It's not usually advisable to change two significant variables at once, when you're trying out something new, but honestly, I had a hunch they would be just fine. And I was not wrong.

    The brush did hold enough water to do the method, and the milksteak, being so easy to lather in general, was great with the Slurry method.

    I used a Weck single edge today, but mostly shaved with a Fatip Open Comb.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Fatip - Grande - Nickel Open Comb ::: Gillette - Platinum ‹8 uses›)

    So I started off the shave with the Weck Sextoblade, but after working on my cheeks in the first pass, and having some issues, I grabbed a DE that was around, the faithful Fatip OC (Grande), which took care of my neck and the rest of the shave easily.

    It was a week's growth after all. And my SR/Weck skills were just not up to the task of shaving off so much stubble, especially on my neck. It would have taken much too long for me to do it right.

    But what I did do with the weck on my cheeks and a little on my neck, didn't generate any irritation, which was very nice.

    The Fatip made sure I had a great shave and the Gill. Plat. was a fine match.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 4 out of 5 (Very Good)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Declaration Grooming Milksteak - Sunrise on Lasalle)

    Them: "Originally located in Downtown Saint Louis, the floral market moved to LaSalle during a period of construction and growth and has been there for decades ever since. One of the oldest markets, it serves florists across the country. This scent is designed to reflect the early morning hours of freshly cut flowers, with their dew-laden sweetness and vibrant freshness. ~~ Notes: Pear, geranium, jasmine tea, and Virginia cedar."

    Scent: On first use, I don't remember detecting any pear, but what I thought I was getting was a green, sinewy, grassy vibe. I liked it well enough... fresh, grassy, green and clean and natur-ey ... though it wasn't super interesting. There's definitely something else out there with a similar nature to it.

    Scent Strength: 5/10, nicely present during shaving.

    Lather... I was shaving off so much stubble that more work was done in pass one, than usual with a slurry lather. So at pass three, we were farther along, in that we were looking at a pretty mature lather. No big deal, but I did have to add some water.

    Milksteak is a good soap base for the Slurry Lather method, it looks like. It is easy to lather for most folks, so I really didn't have many doubts about it.

    Hydration: Perfect (for me)

    • 8 sec load with a Very Wet brush

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Whipped Dog - Angel Hair Green Handle 24mm ‹2 uses›)

    Worked great with the slurry lather method, it seems. Held enough water from the start. Not a ton, but enough. I did need to add more by the end, but that also may have been because the situation was a bit non-standard since the first pass was taking off so much stubble.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Felt blade but comfortable
      Neck: Felt blade but comfortable
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Near BBS - About as close as I'll ever get
      Neck: Cut flush to where I just see the tips (above average for me)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

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  • Jump
    Thursday SOTD Thread - Sep 14, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Gillette - Aristocrat 16 (UK)
    Blade: Gillette - Platinum (7)
    Lather: Summer Break Soaps - Remote Learning
    Brush: Declaration Grooming - B13 Dogwood/Briar Hybrid 28mm (21 uses)
    Post Shave: Stirling - Mountain Man


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    As we work with the Slurry Lather method with a high-density badger, I'm going to try a longer soap-load and a wetter brush.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Gillette - Aristocrat 16 - UK ::: Gillette - Platinum ‹7 uses›)

    Wonderful pairing! A bit of blade feel, but it was smooth and controlled. Close cut.

    No tugging or irritation.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 4 out of 5 (Very Good)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Summer Break Soaps - Remote Learning)

    Them: Doritos

    Scent: nacho cheesy corn tortilla chips is the goal here. I imagine that's a tough challenge. While smelling the dry tub and the wet lather, what comes to me first is a cookie sweet type scent that reminds me of some cinnamon schoolbook cookies from Trader Joes. It's a nice scent, so I don't mind if my brain never switches away from that.

    If I know it is supposed to be corn chips, then I can definitely see that in the scent. So that's cool.

    But even if I set my brain to try to find a cheesy note in there, I really can't.

    I think it might be more realistic with a hint-of-cumin type scent in there, but of course, that could make it hard on skin maybe.

    While I may not really get a Doritos scent from it, I think it's a great attempt, and I know that I like shaving with it anyway.

    Scent Strength: 4/10, present during shaving.

    Lather... Today's try was to load for twice as long as previously done ... 40 swirls. also to make sure there was lots of water in the brush.

    I did both of those things, but the slurry did not develop like it does with other brush types. I think the excess water inhibited the loading of the soap from the puck. This brush just has such soft tips.

    I went back for another 10 swirls when the brush had less water in it and that was good. I got a more normal slurry then.

    I think with this kind of soft-tipped high-density badger, you won't be able to have it hold all the water at the outset. Load from the soap with a merely "wet" brush and not a "very wet" brush. Then add water later, either by dipping tips in a bowl or sprinking from the tap.

    With the tweaks i put in on the first pass, the second and third went just fine and normal for a Slurry lather. Super slick and highly protected.

    Hydration: Perfect (for me)

    • 17 sec load with a Very Wet brush
    • = 4 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Declaration Grooming - B13 Dogwood/Briar Hybrid 28mm ‹21 uses›)

    Great brush with soft tips. Don't get to experience it as much with this fast method, but It's superb nonetheless.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Felt blade but comfortable
      Neck: Felt blade but comfortable
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Near BBS - About as close as I'll ever get
      Neck: Cut flush to where I just see the tips (above average for me)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

    3
  • Jump
    Tuesday SOTD Thread - Sep 12, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Gillette - Aristocrat 15 OC (UK)
    Blade: Gillette - Platinum (6)
    Lather: Summer Break Soaps - Remote Learning
    Brush: Declaration Grooming - B13 Dogwood/Briar Hybrid 28mm (20 uses)
    Post Shave: Stirling - Scarn


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    Today is to try again with the slurry lather on a high density brush. Needs more work, because it took some adjustments to get right.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Gillette - Aristocrat 15 OC - UK ::: Gillette - Platinum ‹6 uses›)

    A wonderful match today. tiny bit of blade feel, but mostly just super slick glide and great comfort.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 4 out of 5 (Very Good)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Summer Break Soaps - Remote Learning)

    Them: Doritos

    Scent: nacho cheesy corn tortilla chips is the goal here. I imagine that's a tough challenge. While smelling the dry tub and the wet lather, what comes to me first is a cookie sweet type scent that reminds me of some cinnamon schoolbook cookies from Trader Joes. It's a nice scent, so I don't mind if my brain never switches away from that.

    If I know it is supposed to be corn chips, then I can definitely see that in the scent. So that's cool.

    But even if I set my brain to try to find a cheesy note in there, I really can't.

    I think it might be more realistic with a hint-of-cumin type scent in there, but of course, that could make it hard on skin maybe.

    While I may not really get a Doritos scent from it, I think it's a great attempt, and I know that I like shaving with it anyway.

    Scent Strength: 4/10, present during shaving.

    Lather... So, knowing that I had a slightly wetter tub of soap, since I had used it previously, I loaded 20seconds again, with the same very wet brush.

    But it still wasn't enough soap. So I'll bump it up more next time.

    But the slurry didn't form like it should for pass 1, and I think the brush may need more water in it too. So I have a few issues that need working on regarding slurry lather using a high density knot.

    But after adjustments, I still got a super slick shave, enabling great protection and a razor that would glide as fast as I needed it to.

    Hydration: Perfect (for me)

    • 7 sec load with a Very Wet brush
    • = 3 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Declaration Grooming - B13 Dogwood/Briar Hybrid 28mm ‹20 uses›)

    The luxury of this brush is a bit lost on a super wet method like the Slurry Lather, it seems.

    It may not actually hold enough water to do the method justice, but further experimentation is required. I still don't think I loaded enough, so I need to get that right first.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Almost Smooth
      Neck: Almost Smooth
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Near BBS - About as close as I'll ever get
      Neck: Cut flush to where I just see the tips (above average for me)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

    2
  • Jump
    Thursday SOTD Thread - Sep 07, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 Open Comb
    Blade: Gillette - Nacet (Marathon) (533)
    Lather: Summer Break Soaps - Wood Shop
    Brush: Declaration Grooming - B13 Dogwood/Briar Hybrid 28mm (18 uses)
    Post Shave: Chatillon Lux - Gratiot League Square


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    Slurry Lather testing continues, this time with a large, premium, high density badger brush.

    I do introduce another variable this time, because I'm working with a scooped soap amount, rather than loading from the soap tub. So I will do more Slurry method testing with this brush to confirm, but I think it will continue to work well.

    I use my new Wood Shop soap for the first time, as well.

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 - Open Comb ::: Gillette - Nacet - M ‹533 uses›)

    Same: a bit of tugging on the first pass, then fine after that, giving a close shave by the end, even though it did take 5 quick passes. No irritation.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 2 out of 5 (Okay)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (Summer Break Soaps - Wood Shop)

    Them:

    Scent: To me, the scent strength was too low to really discern the notes, although I did pick up a vague woodiness, which would make it better than an unscented soap if I had to choose between the two.

    Scent Strength: 3/10, barely present during shaving.

    Lather... Finally a Slurry Lather with a high density badger! Although it wasn't exactly the same use case as I've done through August with the boar. It was because I was working with a smush/scooped amount, rather than tub loading.

    So to try this new soap, I smushed the 1/4 tsp amount into the bottom of my lather bowl. Now, you don't need a specific lather bowl at all to use when making a slurry, because you don't need any kind of texture or agitation mechanisms. Even a coffee mug might do just as well. But I think something a little larger might give you more room for movement, wihtout banging the side of the mug.

    Because of the lack of need for agitation or needing room for lather to be stored, containers/bowls that would not normally suit my bowl-lathering needs can finally have a place, like the Captain's Choice lather bowl. Shoot, even an old soap tub that has been emptied out would be fine.

    The lather turned out in true Slurry fashion, to be super slick and really well hydrated, protecting well, through 5 passes. I did have to add a little water on the last pass, to keep it at top performance.

    Hydration: Perfect (for me)

    • (0.25 tsp) soap with a Very Wet brush
    • = 7 passes of lather

    Bowl: No Bowl

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Declaration Grooming - B13 Dogwood/Briar Hybrid 28mm ‹18 uses›)

    So... now we have a high density, premium brush knot to try with the Slurry Lather. It worked great.

    But this was a little different, since we're not tub loading, so I am going to give this brush more slurry lathers for the sake of completeness.

    Obviously, with a Slurry, you don't feel the brush as much as you wold with a method that uses more time, but I still got to enjoy it some. And like I've been saying, this is a method especially for folks that want to get a nice shave done fast.


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Felt blade but comfortable
      Neck: Felt blade but comfortable
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Very Close Shave
      Neck: Several hairs are showing some tip length (still a pretty good shave)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

    2
  • Jump
    Tuesday Austere August SOTD Thread - Aug 29, 2023
  • I have tons of boars and all manner of badgers, but my horse collection is tiny, since so many of them are reportedly harsh.

    But of all the research I did, the XS Zenith was by far said to be the softest horse option.

    Whichever of the hairs is softer (maybe the mane), if it is increased too much, the brush is truly floppy.

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  • Jump
    Tuesday SOTD Thread - Sep 05, 2023
  • Prep: Splash of Cool Water
    Razor: Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 Open Comb
    Blade: Gillette - Nacet (Marathon) (532)
    Lather: House of Mammoth Tusk - Misfit
    Brush: Declaration Grooming - B13 Dogwood/Briar Hybrid 28mm (17 uses)
    Post Shave: Barrister and Mann - Four Horsemen - Famine


    Gear Pic :: Video

    ䷀ General Notes

    How blessed am I to get to shave with a rare creation from Ben/Mammoth! Due to the generosity of JeepGuy, he shared with me a smush of a soap Ben created just for him as a prize in the Lather Games (over on reddit /r/wetshaving).

    Thanks so much, Jeep!

    I'm also doing a test today of the Nacet blade I've been marathoning, just to see if it's still up to the task of delivering a quality shave. Spoiler: it was.

    I'm also going to enjoy the cloud-like touch of a super-soft badger for the first time in a month!

    ䷀ Razor and Blade Notes

    (Timeless - Stainless Steel .68 - Open Comb ::: Gillette - Nacet - M ‹532 uses›)

    With such a great lather, the razor moved easily and lightly, making 5 passes easy to accomplish quickly. Nice comfort, and a great, close shave at the end, with the old blade requiring some slanted approaches as well as so targeted, and ever-so-light near ATG on the neck.

    Razor and Blade Performance/Comfort Rating: 2 out of 5 (Okay)

    ䷀ Soap Notes

    (House of Mammoth Tusk - Misfit)

    Misfit is a personalized and custom scent created by Ben at House of Mammoth, for J33pGuy13. Jeep won it as a prize in the 2023 Lather games on /r/wetshaving. Only two sets (soap, splash, and EDT) were made, and I consider it an honor that Jeep has sent me a smush to enjoy.

    Them: "Young adulthood. The confidence and the confusion. The enthusiasm and the ennui. ~ Misfit is a study in disparate elements coming together in harmony, a snapshot in time. ~ Its exuberant opening features a bright, waxy citrus peel mixed with a bit of natural creamy musk, bounding forward to greet the day. ~ Next, a beautiful heart of moss, sparkling amber, herbs, and light florals emerges, juxtaposed with splashes of industrial goods and beer. Nature and digital environments fight and interweave strangely. ~ Finally, the fragrance sighs into a relieved and expansive sandalwood and tobacco with spices and vanilla, adorned with the tiniest hint of goat."

    Top: bergamot peel, musk

    Middle: floral, amber, moss, herbs, beer, vinyl

    Base: sandalwood, cardamom, saffron, pink pepper, tobacco, vanilla, musk, goat

    MammothBen continues: "While this was a personal project only for him, J33pGuy13 has generously agreed to allow us to make a second Misfit trifecta for raffle. ~ Proceeds from the Misfit raffle will be donated to Restore NYC and their mission to make freedom real for survivors of trafficking in the United States."

    Me: The soap of course is not the truest expression of the scent as created by the maker. However, I was able to get many of the notes mentioned.

    What strikes me as particularly wonderful about this creation, is that it is enjoyable from two perspectives: the simple user will just notice that it's really nice as it has well-controlled happy notes along side more anchoring and natural/base ones; but the scholar of the scent profile will also thoroughly enjoy how the one side plays against the other, in complete harmony.

    The scholar will see the citrus and musk as a classic start, making the citrus pleasant, but well-grounded. They'll also enjoy how the florals are held in check by the herby moss and harshness of a touch of vinyl. And finally, they'll appreciate how it all settles down into the base notes that are familiar, classic, manly, skillfully-blended, and light, all at the same time.

    Lather... Well, we know that Tusk base is amazing (thanks /u/mammothben), so the performance was a given. But I did happen to totally nail it today, with the lather being so wet, but still having that light luxurious creaminess that is my personal sweet spot.

    The protection it offered was more than adequate for the 5 passes I bathed in today.

    Hydration: Perfect (for me)

    • (0.3 tsp) soap with a Lightly-Wet brush
    • 28 ml (5.7 tsp) added to build the lather
    • = 7 passes of lather

    Bowl: Roger Quintero 3D Printed Bowl
    I use the XL version of this bowl.

    ䷀ Brush Notes

    (Declaration Grooming - B13 Dogwood/Briar Hybrid 28mm ‹17 uses›)

    Oh what a difference this brush was from using the Moar Boar all month.

    First it was lighter by a noticeable amount, since a badger holds less water.

    And of course the broad 28mm expanse of ultrasoft tips. Wooosh!


    During the Shave Feel:
      Cheeks: Felt blade but comfortable
      Neck: Felt blade but comfortable
    After the Shave Closeness:
      Cheeks: Very Close Shave
      Neck: Few hairs are showing some tip length (with most being cut flush)


    Ending of Blades Ledger - entry form and the data spreadsheet

    3
  • Henson Review Video ... some notes and comments on what I've learned about the Henson razor after several uses.

    TLDR: A good razor, but IMO, not really recommended for most shavers, even new ones, because of better options out there.

    I think of this as a razor on training wheels.

    The plane/surface that touches your skin, is so large that the razor locks you in to a certain shaving angle. And I believe that's the core of what's good and bad about the razor.

    Blade angle, where it meets your skin is different than many razors, it seems.

    The v1 that is ++ corresponds to the Medium in the new AL-13. I'm told the blade geometry has not changed between the two.

    We'll start with the good.

    The main positive with this razor is that it's almost impossible to shave at an angle that generates irritation, much less cuts. And so I'm sure that's why it's getting a reputation as a good razor for new shavers.

    Craftsmanship is excellent. Even in this version 1 model (that I was able to try, thanks to a kind viewer), it would be hard to hurt yourself on any of the edges. I understand that v2 is even more refined on the external surfaces.

    Handle is wonderful with nice grip, even when soapy. I really like the taper, which reminds me of the Shick Krona. It feels nimble and controlled in the hand.

    I like how they're not overcharging for the razor, like some other marketing-heavy companies out there.

    I found that it worked very well with several of the most popular blades out there. I don't think I found any blades that disagreed with it.

    I liked how it didn't feel way too light, like aluminum razors I've used in the past. I did wish for just a little more weight, to help the head have more momentum moving through the stubble on the first pass, but that's nit-picking.

    I like how the peripherals on their site seem to be priced fairly (e.g. blades), unlike other companies that are taking advantage of those who are new to the hobby.

    But because of its limited angle, there are some negatives...

    I generally like a razor that provides a smoother shave than this one does. You're never able to go for a smaller blade angle, which helps with smoothness, in my experience.

    It can take a little practice to get the angle right... even more than the average razor. But the good is that you're not likely to generate irritation as you work on your technique. If you're at the wrong angle, it's just not going to shave you.

    As I got used to the razor, I found myself wondering why I wasn't enjoying it as much. So I kept shaving, and thinking. And that lead me to create this video/write-up. The razor has good blade support, which I'm always a fan of... but I'm never able to take advantage of that and go with a smaller blade angle (more open handle angle) because of the way the razor fences you in to the angle they've set.

    In the video, I compare the blade angle, at least by eye, of the Henson, with the seemingly smaller angles of a vintage Tech, a Pearl Flexi, and a Fatip.

    I do think that it's a little harder to shave convex areas, like the neck, with the Henson, than with other razors.

    I'll finish by saying that I did enjoy my Henson shaves, and I can see how it might give a certain feel that some people will enjoy.

    While I do like smaller blade angle razors better, at least the Henson never gave me any kind of irritation or razor burn.

    And so what I've pointed out as negatives really aren't negatives at all. They are just differences. It was designed to be a different kind of razor than most of the other razors out there.

    I do find that it would not be a good buy for me, because I would very quickly learn the technique and wish that I could take the training wheels off and pursue a smoother shave via a smaller blade angle, or have easier access to my neck, or just change things up in general.

    Would the Henson be a good razor for someone with sensitive skin? I would guess not (at least not as good as other, cheaper options). Since other razors are able to shave me with a smoother feel, I think logically that they would be even kinder to the surface of my skin than the Henson would be. But that's just an educated guess.

    Is this a good razor for a new shaver to buy? I would not recommend it myself, mainly because of the price. I find that it's not that hard to get good technique down so that you're able to use the more "normal"/ non-training wheel razors. And then once you can do that, you'll probably appreciate the dynamic nature of the different angle possibilities that are now available for you with other razors.

    I'd hate for a new shaver to try out wetshaving with a Henson and discover that it wasn't for them, through no fault of the Henson. Now they've spent that much on a razor. I'd rather they start out with a Tech, or Slim, or a Zamak razor like the Maggard V3 series or Baili.

    However, if you've got tons of money, then why not start out with the Henson. No great loss if you move on to something else after you want to take the training wheels off.

    It might be a good razor for certain shavers that may have a muscular or coordination disorder/issue, where they just always need those angle protections in place.

    Also, some guys don't actually like the smooth feel of razors like I do (while still being efficient and close-cutting of course). So you may really like the Henson, just on feel alone. Or for any other reason you can think of.

    So, in the end, it's a good razor, that might be just right for some people... just not me. And I hope I've given you some good things to think about as you figure out if the Henson might be worth a try for you.

    (I was given the razor to try as a free gift, from a viewer and fellow shaver, whom is not affiliated with Henson, that I know of.)

    0