VoronDesign

Build process is 99% complete. I taped on the panels initially using painter's tape so I could print the skirts and a few mods in ABS. Several mods are already in place, including Nevermore, panel clips, picam mount, Rock-'n'-roll, and LEDs. I had a TFT50 screen sitting around from a defunct Ender 5 that I swapped with LDO's TFT43.

Also since last time, I changed from Klicky to KlickyPCB. I've had waaaaay more consistent probing with the PCB kit than I ever had with regular Klickym and I highly recommend the PCB version, Maybe a bit of mea culpa, I couldn't for the life of me get the magnets to go flush into the Klicky mount, so there was some wobble that isn't present in the PCB version.

Last thing to do is to close up the electronics with the bottom panel and I'll be ready for a serial number 😁

The only real change between my last post and this one is getting “the filter” printed, assembled, and running. This doesn’t seem like a print that would be prone to warping, so it’s probably not a great test, but I am trying brimless. I can feel a decent amount of heat coming off the enclosure, so it’s certainly warmer in there than it has been in the past.

Next: try going faster! This is an 8 hour print using basically the stock superslicer profile for the 350 2.4. I did bump up extrusion width, but flow rates are still very low compared to what my rapido HF should be able to deliver with ASA at 250. I’m thinking that I should try the same speed for both internal and external walls. That would save me 2 hours. Maybe I should just go with a larger nozzle? I don’t want to decrease wall count, not that is even practical on this model.

Title basically.

Obviously, cold nozzle + filament on it from my last print = the printer thinks the nozzle is lower than it actually is.

Preheating the nozzle helps some, but if I want true consistency I need to mechanically whipe the nozzle/grab the bit of plastic that oozes out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

I know nozzle brush mods are a thing, but aren't the hard on your nozzle? Does anyone have any alternative ideas?

Finished everything up assembly-wise. Still lots of tuning to do, but I'd say this first print looks phenomenal for not having done any tuning other than Klicky+calibrate_z

Some below deck electronics done too. I'm so close I can smell it

Interestingly I could print smaller ASA parts on my i3 clone with an ultrabase bed unenclosed without much of any warping. Granted, it was leveled way too low... my Voron has a great first layer and no elephants foot, but.. it needs to be enclosed for most anything ASA and preheated for moderately large prints. Makes it hard to print the enclosure clips, so back to cardboard it is.

I had no issues feeding filament with a 1 kg spool on the stock spool holder and no PTFE tube. Moving to a 3 kg spool and a PRFE tube has been a bit of a journey, but my old i3 spool holder on a desk and the PTFE tube ziptied to the factory spool holder had me up and running. I did have one print fool because the filament seems like it broke in the PTFE tube, but that seems to have been a one off so far...

Had a few setbacks since last week, including needing to relube the belts with a more appropriate grease. Also, one of the parts for the clockwork 2 was busted. I can't print ABS yet since I don't have an enclosure, so I opted to print the clockwork parts in Fiberlogy PA12+CF15. PA12 is OK according to the Voron print guide so I'm hoping it'll work. My PIF supplier said he'd send me a replacement, so I'll have a spare in case.

Anyhow, everything is belted up, hotend is assembled, and I built my Klicky (that was a huge pain...), so I think I'm ready for electronics 😀

Having a hard time uploading the latest picture, will try again soon.

Also got it belted up, but found out afterwards that I used a grease that is controversial on the rails (superlube with syncolor). It's recommended by LDO and Nero3D uses it in his video, but many folks on the Voron Discourse say it's a no-go. I'd rather not risk it, so I'm uninstalling the rails, cleaning/degreasing them, and reapplying some white lithium grease.

Hi all, glad I found this community from the 3D printing one.

I’m looking to build. 2.4 and was wondering if anyone has recommendations for a good kit on Europe.

I did some googling, but most results I find are US or way too expensive.

I’m hoping to spend around €1000 without printed parts if possible, but willing to spend more for good quality parts.

Thanks in advance!

It's not done yet (need to print a new klicky mount since the one I have seems to be sitting 3-4mm too low, need to mount panels, build the filter, and tune), but it's printing! After I fixed x-offset print quality is really pretty good with basically stock profiles and zero tuning beyond e-steps.

I am somewhat tempted to post a (somewhat) bigger writeup in a new thread, but my free time is super limited. AMA if you want to know anything in particular.

Well, I made a commitment today. After a couple of years on an Ender 3 Pro which is totally a ship of Theseus now, I'm building a #Voron 2.4 r2. Wish me luck! It was either that or a Switch and some games.

This is the next (big) step into getting a little more serious about project work with my kids. I hope it pays off for us 😅

Just installed the Sherpa Crew Mini on the Dirtybird and seems to have improved the issue 6.

I have a 2.4 in progress right now and of course I still haven’t gotten a raspberry pi 4 yet. I know people have used raspberry pi zeros as a substitute, but I plan to use a webcam (I think I saw somewhere before that it might be too heavy). Does anyone have this setup?

I have a Le Potato and I’m very comfortable with linux, but I’d just rather not deal with the troubleshooting and work that might come with using a different platform.

My first Lemmy post(because I'm done with Reddit too and I want to see this one succeeds) I'm also updating my progress as I go on my blog. The kit and MP themselves have been great so far.

https://automatedhome.party/2023/06/27/my-secondmagic-phoenix-voron-2-4-3d-printer-vs-my-first-voronformbot/

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