I mean, sure. I'm not debating whether it's right or wrong, I'm just saying that naturally, once a minority becomes relevant, they start demanding recognition, especially if their culture differs quite a bit from the "host" country, which is not wrong in and of itself. I feel like it's more evident when the immigrant population differs quite a bit from the host country. This is just my opinion though, based on my local and anectodal experiences, so feel free to disagree with me, I'm open to dialogue.
But I feel like I'm sidetracking from the main question here.
My sentences are weird because I'm not english.
True that, but you see the effects locally. Also, you need an arguably small portion of the population being immigrants for them to become relevant in the society, no need to replace everyone. Relevant minorities get legislation protecting them and their traditions/beliefs.
I mean, people want to keep their customs and traditions, so immigrants will bring their own customs and traditions, and if you have lots of immigrants, their customs and traditions will become the main ones in that place.
I’ve always parked with first gear engaged (and parking brake), so when I turn it on I press the clutch while still being in first. Do people not do that and instead shift to neutral?
Basically Assassin’s Creed
How did you create this screenshot? I mean, is there some kind of smart program that lets you zoom in like that?
All jokes aside, why do medieval paintings suck so much when it comes to drawing animals?
This guy was like: “daym look at that fish, looks so good and tasty”, and then painted it. A man of focus
Why the fuck is it allowed to force arbitration when someone dies? It’s insanity
It’s the scene from Troy, way too detailed on the people to be AI generated. The horse head though, I don’t think it’s AI, just edited by someone.
Process X creates videos about all the different stuff that is produced in Japan, from camera lenses, to steel sheets, and traditional masks. There is no voice, only subtitles and the recorded sounds of what was filmed. I find it quite relaxing and addictive.
Edit: maybe the fact that nobody talks is an issue, sorry. Still a great channel if you’re interested.
That’s PugJesus for you. Whoever they are, they know loads of cool and interesting shit, spanning history, politics, and philosophy (I think). I always engage with their posts/comments when I can because they never disappoint.
Why not? Isn’t most of the radiation coming from the rod itself? I’d expect a vertical, high-intensity cloud over the rod, which gets less intense the further it goes to the left and to the right of it.
I played the crap out of this game, I loved it more than the main games. Something about actually being the Pokémon I loved made this game so much fun and special. Also, the story was good, it felt like it was written by someone competent instead of the usual, boring story the main line games have.
So, uhm, what the hell is going on with all these ad posts I’m seeing in this community?
Hi,
I'm trying to wrap my head around the rolling shutter effect, specifically why it happens.
I'm having a hard time understanding how the readout speed affects the image. If I understood correclty, when in electronic shutter mode the pixels are exposed as indicated by the shutter speed (e.g. at 1/1000 each pixel is exposed for 1/1000 of a second).
If the readout takes 1/100 s to scan the entire sensor, what happens exactly when I take the picture? Do the pixels start firing sequentially as the shutter speed dictates (i.e. 1/1000 s each, sequentially)? If that is the case, do they wait for the readout to catch up or do they continue firing? If the latter, by the time the readout reaches the second pixel, the eleventh pixel is firing, so there are 10 pixel between the one firing and the one being read. Does it work like this?
If the pixels are exposed for 1/1000 s and then turned off and their value stored, wouldn't that mean that the image should not be affected? I mean, they saw the subject for 1/1000 s and the motion should be frozen, they are just waiting for the value to be read. Just like if you asked 10 people to open their eyes for 1 second (shutter speed), one after the other, and draw what they see. They saw if for one second each, so at most the difference in the position of what they saw should cover 10 seconds. Then they can take hours to draw what they saw (readout speed), but what they saw specifically wouldn't be afftected by how long it takes them to draw it. Am I wrong here maybe?
Also, in general, why is mechanical shutter not as affected (if affected at all) by the rolling shutter effect? Does the sensor capture light differently when in mechanical shutter mode?
I just don't get it. I feel like I'm close to understanding why, but I still don't.
I know I'm probably weird for focusing so much on something technical like this, but it just bugs me so much.
Any help is greatly appreciated, really.
Hi everyone, although I like to study the photography topic, I'm really a noob when it comes to practical terms.
I would like to take pictures at a family event which will take place in a garden in the evening/night.
Well, my gear is quite modest, and I know I don't have what I need to take good pictures of both the place and the people there. I'm looking to rent a nice lens to carry around as I take pictures (and enjoy the party too! So I'm just taking one 😅). So I would really appreciate some advice on what to rent.
There are the four lenses I found while digging, two are primes, two are zooms:
-
Canon RF 24MM F/1.8 IS STM: it's fast, with IS, but I'm not sure about portraits with this focal length.
-
Canon EF 24mm f/1.4 L II USM: super fast, no IS, still not sure about portraits with this focal length.
-
Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM: IS, quite fast, zoom lets me take portraits, but I've read it's not very sharp.
-
Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8 L IS USM: IS, quite fast, zoom lets me take portraits (not strongly as the one above but still).
Here's my situation:
- I have Canon Eos R10 with the EF adapter.
- My hands are shaky, so without IS I need to be at least at 1/125...
- I like to keep ISO really low (<6400) if I can.
- I kind of pixel peep (I know I don't have the right because I'm crap but I can't resist) so I like to take as sharp pictures as I can.
Which lens would you reccommend? Since I'm renting them I was thinking about going all in with the expensive ones, the cost won't increase much. The primes are so bright I feel comfortable they will be bright enough, but I don't know if I can take good portraits at 24mm. On the other hand, zooms let me do more things, but I don't know if I can handle f/2.8 with my crappy and shaky hands.
Of course, if you can think of other lenses that would be perfect for the job I'm all ears!
Cheers
Hi everyone, although I like to study the photography topic, I'm really a noob when it comes to practical terms.
I would like to take pictures at a family event which will take place in a garden in the evening/night.
Well, my gear is quite modest, and I know I don't have what I need to take good pictures of both the place and the people there. I'm looking to rent a nice lens to carry around as I take pictures (and enjoy the party too! So I'm just taking one 😅). So I would really appreciate some advice on what to rent.
There are the four lenses I found while digging, two are primes, two are zooms:
-
Canon RF 24MM F/1.8 IS STM: it's fast, with IS, but I'm not sure about portraits with this focal length.
-
Canon EF 24mm f/1.4 L II USM: super fast, no IS, still not sure about portraits with this focal length.
-
Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM: IS, quite fast, zoom lets me take portraits, but I've read it's not very sharp.
-
Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8 L IS USM: IS, quite fast, zoom lets me take portraits (not strongly as the one above but still).
Here's my situation:
- I have Canon Eos R10 with the EF adapter.
- My hands are shaky, so without IS I need to be at least at 1/125...
- I like to keep ISO really low (<6400) if I can.
- I kind of pixel peep (I know I don't have the right because I'm crap but I can't resist) so I like to take as sharp pictures as I can.
Which lens would you reccommend? Since I'm renting them I was thinking about going all in with the expensive ones, the cost won't increase much. The primes are so bright I feel comfortable they will be bright enough, but I don't know if I can take good portraits at 24mm. On the other hand, zooms let me do more things, but I don't know if I can handle f/2.8 with my crappy and shaky hands.
Of course, if you can think of other lenses that would be perfect for the job I'm all ears!
Cheers
Hi, the issue I’m having is pretty straightforward and I don’t want to bore you:
I have a Mac and a Win11 PC on the same private network. I have a folder on Win11 that I want to share with Mac, and the other way around.
I’ve set up a new local user on the Win11 machine with accesso to that folder only (for security reasons). It has a user and a password, and when I try to connect to a new “server” on MacOS (cmd+k) and I input the folder path, I then log in with that user’s credentials just fine.
The issue is with the Mac folder shared on Win11: I’ve enabled SMB file sharing on the Mac and given the permissions on that folder to a “sharing only” account I’ve created locally. When on Win11 I try to connect to the Mac (I have to input the Mac’s IP, using “smb://…” doesn’t work), it asks for the credentials and it always says the “network password” is incorrect. The weird thing is, if I input the main MacOS account’s credentials I read the folder just fine (and everything else if course).
What am I doing wrong?