Still looking for a snake that's small enough. My normal goto, copper wire, is a challenge to use in small tubes as well.
I'm looking for some help researching how to clean long tubes, such as maybe 1/4 inch pickup tubes for a water pump that may be 20 feet long. I've been able to find hydration bladder cleaning kits that allow for cleaning the first 2 or 3 feet of these tubes, but beyond some sort of high pressure/high flow system with high caustic cleaning solutions, I haven't found a good way to swab out a long tube.
You're not wrong.
I've noticed that seems to be happening, especially with companies like Amazon, whom I work for, aside from the money they can make from it. That said, we also have an example of that in the form of old Soviet Russia. They had actually eliminated most holidays.
That is also something that I have wondered about, but that probably isn't a thing because of salt buildup.
That's actually part of my question. The bowels also dump toxins overboard as well, but will they be enough to do the job?
True, though as is, we still need to take in water due to a shortfall in what we do take in. That said, I'm also wondering if my proposal would also result in other waste products being recirculated and building up in the system, causing their own complications.
I can totally see that, though what if the body was able to adapt to the new configuration and keep the gut bacteria in its place, but the urine still flowed into the bowels for reprocessing? What else would the large intestines pick up aside from water and maybe salt?
Then you'd be right back where you started for my purposes, still losing moisture unnecessarily.
A cloaca still has facilities for urine to be dumped overboard, doesn't it? My proposal is to recirculate it before dumping it overboard dry.
I have wondered many times how a human would fare if the kidneys dumped urine into the start of the large intestines somewhere about the appendix instead of into a bladder to be sprayed out. I'm assuming water would be reabsorbed and slower to process out, primarily through sweat and evaporation from the lungs, and maybe diarrhea, though it may be that other waste products, such as salts or ureas may be absorbed into the large intestines instead of being ejected, though I have no idea if it would, or if it would be ejected as intended. Do we have any biologists here that could give insight on if combining both waste paths into one would be advisable?
Would you pay $20 for a Big Mac? ...though they'll probably automate the cooking and cashier positions, so they don't have to pay an employee what I make as a robotics technician.
The main two things I like about start menus is that it keeps all your apps out of the way, and in some resemblence of organizatoin, instead of just barfing them all out in one big cluttered mess, which is part of what turns me away from Apple, or Gnome. However, they're not as easy to use on touchscreens. That said, ads deeply nerf this advantage.
I didn't realize that, though it seems to run fine on my potato (Ryzen 5: 1400, 16GB DDR4, Radeon 6770) with the occasional stutter, locked at 30fps 1080p for the most part. I haven't tried faster frame rates yet as I'm trying to mirror the feel of the game between both this system and my Deck.
I'm running a Radeon 6770 on my home machine, running Mint and running Baulder's Gate 3 under Steam, and have been having some surfaces sparkle or not show correctly when running it with Vulkan in Proton, though everything looks perfect when using DirectX. It also looks correct in both modes when run on Steam deck. What is this phenomenon, just a bug in my graphics driver and Vulkan? None of my other games exhibit this issue.
Crossover and Wine are the OG compatibility layers for Windows gameplay on Linux, and while I can't vouch for either one now, as Wine is the only one I used--back in the days of the original Unreal, I can say now that Steam's Proton is fairly straightforward and simple. Pretty much, unless it has some sort of anti-cheat malware, like BattleEye, everything "just works." .. and usually, if the game employs anti-cheat, and they catch you playing (fairly) on Linux, you're usually banned.
Looks like I may be going back to an all metal hotend. I had some decent luck with a Creality Spider, though I've found that it isn't in production and the choice of nozzles limited to pretty much the 04 nozzle that comes with most printers. What's the CR-10 all metal hotend that is popular and useful and with a good variety of nozzles?
While I know I'm not going to get SLA level detail (which I have given up on for now as I keep busting the LCD of my resin printer every set of prints) I am still hoping I can get to something recognizable, usually at 3x size for the figure, which I could do with the CR10 head and the Spider. Problem is, haven't been able to even begin to dial in the calibrations, which is what I'm asking for assistance with. Where is a good place to start my tests at?
I do use a dryer on most, if not all of my filament, so I know it isn't that. Thanks for the tip, though. I literally have a Sonyu dryer with the extrusion nipple of both the top and bottom drilled out to 1/2 inch to get rid of the moisture. I'm able to get it down to 25% humidity at 40c or so inside, and I'll leave it for days before I print. Same results.
You mean 14 year-long user of Fisher Price products? :3
I feel like they missed a perfect opportunity, though it may just be the most 2000s thing ever.
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices. The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social [/c/functionalprint@kbin.social] There is a FreeCAD commun...
I just changed my stock Ender 3 hotend to a Volcano to get back to a more durable printhead after wrecking my Creality Spider head and have gotten it to where I can print something monolythic (like a brick or boot dryer type thing that doesn't have much actual detail) without much issue, but printing something with any detail, such as a character piece for DnD results in an absolute whispy disaster. I'm still trying to print stock recommended speeds and stock temperatures (PLA at 200C, PETG at 240C, etc at 50 to 75mm/s) and retract from none to 9mm trying to find something that works. Nothing does so far, even when I go to playing with temps (PETG 200-260C, PLA 180-240C) Where should I set my baseline settings to be able to get close to the CR-10 head that I started with? I originally upgraded to the Spider, which is now discontinued, because of printing ASA and the CR-10 creating a lot of jams as the bowden tube degrades inside. I have also heard good things about the Volcano and was curious about them. I'm still running the stock extruder, btw. I'm betting my problem is simply that I don't know how to use this head yet, though I guess I could have gotten a dud.
Also about survival, urban survival, grey man, Preparedness, Self-sufficient, Resilient, Adaptable, Low profile A place to share information on emergency preparedness as it relates to disasters both natural and man-made. Would you survive in the event of economic, political and social collapse? What...
I'm wanting to make a fairly basic SHTF survival kit for recovering from an incident in either the Alabama forest or in town, and intend to fit it with some basic firestarting in a container meant for a UCO match kit. I still intend to carry a few matches, as well as some sort of small cutting tool, maybe a shelter type item, and in general enough tools and material to get myself reoriented and to where I can use available materials to fashion additional tools from available material in the area in the event of something like an auto accident. 0F is flippin' cold for me and probably just below what I would see for lows, though 100F does happen in the summer. I'm not thinking too much about signaling and noisemaking at this time, so that can probalby be moved to my backpack kit. I would put items on my keyring except that I think I am likely to leave my keys in the vehicle if I did have to GTFO, which I did have to do with a car fire one time. (Was not injured in car fire, fortunately. Also had family nearby to take me the few miles I had left to get home.) Since I have largely forgotten many of my survival skills I haven't thought about in awhile, I will be spending some time trying to get to where I am not so woefully unprepared. Suggestions on what to fit in the match box?
Match box I am using: https://www.amazon.com/UCO-Stormproof-Waterproof-Matches-Strikers/dp/B00773VVHO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2TN2JNYDCSVP0&keywords=uco+matches+stormproof&qid=1689487019&sprefix=uco+matc%2Caps%2C104&sr=8-2