Is this too niche of a meme?
Is this too niche of a meme?


Is this too niche of a meme?
Torx is only good if your screw is non rusting it rounds off too fast with almost any sign of rust.
Torx kinda requires it be made of a decent alloy, it was developed to handle situations where you really really need torque. Handling more force than anything else was the guiding principle of its design.
Hence you find it in places such as bicycle disc brake rotor mounts.
it rounds off too fast
You've had significant issues with Torx screws rounding off? I think it's designed be the least prone to that. My personal (very minor) issue with Torx screws is they provide too much grip and torque. They will break before they cam-out and I've snapped off screw heads and the bits themselves, even hand-tightening.
Agreed i strip so, so many philps and hex screws. Although the combination screw has saved my ass, when shit hits the fan and i striped philps. I get bertha THE BAG ASS FLATHEAD
had to dremel one of my laptop's (stripped) philip head screws to use a flat head screwdriver on it
it worked, somehow
Everybody needs one big ass flathead just to demo with. The superior wonderbar.
Disagree. Torx are the easiest to strip. Torx bits literally last 12 bolts or so.
Hex should be B teir. Pozi should be C, it's very common in the UK for low torque applications. But it looks deceptively similar to Phillips.
Hex could even be A tier except...
Too many years of wrenching on old equipment has soured me on all except for the good old fashioned hex bolt (S tier) and Robertson (A tier).
Even slotted beats most of these if the steel is decent, scrape out the rust and whack it with an impact screwdriver. I've turned many torx and hex in particular into slotted over the years.
External/male hex aka what big bolts have that you use a wrench for are A tier. I can't really think of a more effective way to transfer large amounts of torque to a bolt or nut. Female hex aka Allens are low C or high D tier. They would rate higher, but they're made in 8.23*10^19 sizes, and the correct one nearly never falls to hand. Add to that the tendency for allen wrenches to be made of low quality extruded hex stock and you've got an excellent recipe for an unpleasant fastening experience.
I could be talked into bumping Hex up to B, I just want it between Phillips and Robertson.
I don't have any experience with Pozi screws in the US, but doing a quick search they look like a solid upgrade over Phillips, so I'm guessing I would agree if I actually used them.
Pozidriv should be fucking banned oh my god why is it so common in the uk it’s so deeply inappropriate for 99.99% of applications
I feel like you didn't give enough credit to slotted and combo (& hex but others have said that). Being able to be removed with a quarter or other coin is incredibly useful in applications where access to screwdrivers isn't a given.
Yeah, combo is where it's at in terms of field serviceability. I pretty much always have a flathead on hand, but very rarely have a torx but set, Allen key, or Robertson close at hand if I'm in the field.
I prefer flat over Philips imo, phillips very easy to strip
any screw is a flathead screw if you have a dremel
I'm a technician and keep my 9 most-used screwdriver bits in its handle and all of these are usually fine for most applications... Except the slotted screw! I literally get annoyed every single time I have to use one, it always slips out and it's significantly slower to screw/unscrew anything. Also, I only want to carry one, but if I use one wide enough to minimize slipping, it's usually too thick to fit in the slot! "Screw" you, flathead screws and the $0.0001 you save with each one...
Here's what I use most often (not necessarily in order):
flat beats Phillips you Philistine! sure it's not self centering but at least you can torque it and it's compatible with improvised tools.
Hey now, you can't just lump Robertson and "Square" as the same ones, one is assuredly better and it sure as shit as not square. Robertsons have a slight taper that prevent the bit from slipping out, and the stupid square ripoff has 0 angles. So if you use Robertson bits on a square screw, it gets super fucked, and if you swap it basically doesn't work at all. If you use Robertson for both, its fucking magic.
TLDR: Square bits not same. Square bit bad. Robertson good.
Robertson Square that high up? This list must have a few loose screws.
I've used them very rarely, but I've never had one strip unlike everything beneath it so I can't complain.
Because they aren't the same, or compatible with eachother really. I use them a lot and can almost promise you the problem is when you involve the "square" one's at all. Robertsons all have a taper, so you can kinda use square bits/screws either each other, but they will chew the shit out of each other. Squares will always slip/strip, Robertson is far better IME.
I do like a good Robertson. Don't even need a magnetic tip to hold them on.
Allen/Hex is supposed to be C tier? Yeah right...
In theory they're good, but I've had a few too many allen/hex screws strip and having both SAE and metric standards is irritating. Tool quality has been an issue as well, I've had shitty Torx screwdrivers last for years and years while a decent allen wrench will snap or wear out way faster. Still miles better than Phillips though.
Edit: also you can use Torx bits on hex screws, so more points for Torx.
Thwy strip, and good luck with torquing them to anything. I can't count how many times I had to drill out hex screws, and I don't even work with metal that much
I've literally never in my life seen a square or robertson screw. Pozi though is like 90% of all screws.
Very popular in Canada
Most electrical panels use Robertson from my experience
Them square joints is tight. Never slip out on an impact.
Cabinetry screws also
I found a screw that was a tamper proof torx apparently. With a hole in the middle. Is that even higher up?
Ah, the worlds best security screw, the one you can open by jamming a flathead in it.
At a glance the Philips screw looks like a sad face. It's like it knows how it makes us all feel
The second any dirt or rust get involved that scale gets inverted
Square is best here imo
Torx >
This is correct, Torx is easily the best standard. Robertson is an acceptable second.
Posidriv can bugger off too.
When you look at a Robertson, or a JIS or even a Phillips you just use a JIS or Robertson and you’re fine. If it is posidriv, you must use posidriv and you can’t use posidriv with a conventional Robertson/Phillips/JIS. The only way you can tell the difference is by a teeny-tiny little dot on the screwhead or some extra minuscule fins on the driver. If you do t have your glasses, or aren’t aware, you will damage the screw and your driver.
Hex and Torx are OK for certain things where you don’t want an ignorant pleb to gain access. Security Hex and Security Torx are OK where you don’t want an ignorant pleb in denial of their ignorance to gain access.
All those other drivers, Triwing, Pentalobe, variants of Posidriv are just there to push proprietary applications and should not be used by anyone.
Robertson is top tier too
As someone who owned a Jeep in a place where they salt the roads in the winter. Fuck torx.
That being said no other screw head would have been any better, and maybe it was just a cheap torx socket (you could see I had actually twisted the whole head on the tool, before stripping the screw). A hex bolt for that particular application would have been much easier to remove (or snap the head off :p)
Applications exposed to corosion really should use external drive fasteners.
I don't like that I need a particular size bit. With Phillips, I can grab most screw drivers and they'll fit most screws.
So you're the one stripping all the screws then!
I find Torx unpleasant to work with.
I'd like Torx if when they got used they didn't torque the shit out of the screws. Only the Steam Controller has ever been a simple process of removing Torx screws.
Everything else takes the power of drawing Excalibur from its stone.
Me out here calling them “plus head” and “minus head” like a neanderthal
we call philips "cross" and flathead "slit"
'cross-head' and 'flat-head' for me
Then there's german, with (technically) slit and cross-slit
Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher
We call them "star screws" where I'm from
I have been around tools for a long time. When someone asks me for a screwdriver I always ask, “Plus or minus?” to see their reaction.
"Times."
Neanderthals were on to something then
omg I've found my people, you all have strong opinions on screw driver geometry
Might I recommend a book on the matter.
One Good Turn: A Natural History of the Screwdriver and the Screw by Witold Rybczynski
Hey cool my grandfather was named witold. Probably had some strong opinions on screwdrivers too tbh.
Cheers for the recommend
Torx and Robertson are the best.
I always know I've found my people when they have extremely strong beliefs on everyday household items. My favorite was a 3 week argument about electrical sockets on Reddit a few years ago
Slot screw drive gang rise up!
No.
It pries, it scrapes, it can do anything!
Linux and bit heads, Lemmy is definitely my place lol
I fucking hate Phillips style so much.
Never tried JIS though, Robertson is where it's at.
Do you have a moment to talk about our Lord and Savior Torxus Christ?
Torx is the one true god
What is the reason to use torx over Internal hex (Allen key)? Surely there must be a reason why it's used
When growing up it used to be that (internal) hex was for high strength but needed exact tool size, and Phillips/flat blade for low strength application with the benefit of any approximately sized tool will work.
Seems to me torx is in this awkward in-between where it's used for low-strength applications, but require exact tool size. Or it's used interchangeably with hex, requiring two sets of tools available at the work site (not fun if the work site is 30 meters up some ladders)
Found the Canadian
But not #1, or most of #2, in common stainless alloys. Even dry film lubed and drill tip is insufficient to prevent the torque from exceeding the (relatively low) yield strength, leading to stripped screws from standard driving in any wood denser than about G=0.45. There's simply not enough contact area to prevent it.
Stainless fasteners are niche and require stainless tools, full-stop.
Most fasteners are not stainless.
90% of complaints about any screw head type is some jackass using the wrong driver like a P2 in a P3 head totally mystified as to why their shit stripped.
That's not just user error, though. Phillips also makes it easy to use an undersized driver, and people will grab whatever they have handy. Torx doesn't have that problem, but at the expense of needing a bunch of different drivers for different screws.
Yeah, I’ll take that trade off pls
Nah, it's user error. Torx also has the problem. I've had to rescue multiple laptops from one of the IT guys at my work because he keeps using a Torx bit a couple sizes too small and stripping the heads.
Well, don't forget that a philips head screw was designed to slip. It was designed as a poor man's torque-controlled screw. This is really part of the problem. If you use hardened steel drivers and screws this is not a problem but often it's pretty low quality and the slipping will cause damage to the head and driver.
I prefer torx for this reason. But most of the screws I use I don't pick, because I do a lot of repair work.
Phillips was not designed to cam out. It cams out so people started saying it was designed to cam out.
Phillips was designed to reduce cam out, which it does, compared to slotted.
Common misconception.
How do I identify the screw head size by sight
Same way you identify which wrench to use on a hex bolt: You get a feel for it over time and you find the one that "fits" right.
You should be able to lightly rest the Philips driver in the head of the screw, and the tip should touch bottom. If it doesn't touch the bottom, go a size smaller. If you can rotate the driver in the screw head, go a size bigger.
When in doubt, it's probably a #2.
It's fucking stupid though. Just use like three. Not 25
Pozidriv enters the chat
How does a positraction on a Plymouth work? It just does.
Isn't Positraction a GM trademark?
I wonder how many pozidriv screws have been stripped and a Phillips driver has gotten the blame.
I'm trying to understand what the top half of each diagram is
The tip of a screwdriver
Why does it look like a clam shell
Taco
Aww Jis
Mother. Fuckin. Superior. Standards.
Screw this meme
All that lame stuff. Torx it is.
Phillips is just common in consumer goods as it's designed to cam out when over torqued by the average joe. Better to have it stripped but tight than a broken head.
Still sucks balls when you know what you are doing though.
It's not designed to cam out. It was supposed to be a quicker alternative to slotted. It cammed out a lot, people then claimed it was a feature.
Looked into it a bit and you are right, it wasn't intended. The articles I've read all mention camming out as an unexpected bonus.
Torx is superior in every single way.
Torx blows. Robertson’s where it’s at.
Robertson has the issue of when force is applied it is at angles that can easily damage the head and the tool or both.
In general I feel Robertson is excellent for low torque applications, but torx doesn't have any of these issues.
Pozidriv > *
Not only is it self-centering like phillips and JIS (eg the reason they are used in so many line-assembled manufactured goods) but it's has superior contact like a Robertson (square drive) or hex or torx.
Torx > *
Torx's highest-in-class leverage without camming out gives it superiority in some applications (eg impact-rated deck screws), but if you had to choose one fastener head for everything, posidriv is it.
Torx is not self-centering, and therefore inappropriate for many tasks including anything not hand-assembled. It is also susceptible to stripping out after rusting.
Isn't it proprietary?
The patent is expired and it now has ANSI and ISO standards.
Screw you
That guy loves jis lol
It’s not about the depth, it’s all about the angle.
Sounds like someone is working with a small screwdriver, if you ask me.
Fuck your limit screws
-Shimano, probably
Wait...shit. All those arguments I had with my Ninja suddenly make perfect sense, the screws on the goddamn carbs were JIS and not phillips. fuq.
Yep, very important to know for Japanese motorcycles, they all use JIS.
Higher-end bike parts might be the one application a home DIYer might encounter stainless steel hardware.
Stainless hardware is generally pretty uncommon, but most common in things like commercial kitchen equipment, aerospace and industrial machine panels.
In those industries, the pros know and carry specific stainless steel tools, because using normal tool-steel tools will destroy the hardware.
tl;dr Phillips, pozi or JIS, you might just end up shredding the softer stainless bicycle hardware with your harder tools.
Respect
Goldwing Cross-Head has entered the chat
https://piped.video/watch?v=IAtOKl3JlnQ&t=970
Around the 16:05 mark. Im not a screw connoisseur but I remember this clip :)
Torx Plus