After spending several hours on Saturdays doing yardwork I didn't enjoy doing for years on end, I finally hired a gardener. Now I get to spend that time doing yardwork I do enjoy, like making landscaping improvements, or gardening.
I expect they do need lubrication from time to time. I just bought an electric mower this year and it's pretty low power, so I predict that any amount of additional friction in the system is going to be too much.
Wish they made an affordable electric zero turn that could handle mowing 7 acres of field 3-4 times a month in the summer. I need commercial grade sadly and there’s nothing in the homeowner space that comes close to my needs. The commercial ones are like 30k to compare with what I got for 6k
While I can’t say I have a large yard. My 80v Greenworks system can do the job 90% of the time on 1 battery (I have 2). When it can’t from being lazy and not mowing as often as I should have or it was especially rainy, I can swap the batteries in moments and the battery charges within 20 or so minutes. By then I am done or using the battery from the mower in the leaf blower or weed whacker.
I would imagine if I had a larger yard I would go with a third in the event of having longer grass to cut and would have a battery charged, battery charging, and one in use.
I would not trade my yard system with a gas one for any amount of money. If i do anything it’d be to hire someone that uses electric (quieter!) to mow and edge and all that jazz. Or use a Fiskars reel mower.
Oh yea. I drive an ID.4. Suck it gas stations trolololol.
Some mowers are designed that way. Mine advertised "no oil changes", but really it means I have to add oil a couple times a year instead of draining it.
Most mowers are four stroke like automobile engines, this includes pushmowers. Modern ones even have oil filters. Generally, riding mowers have two cylinder v-twin engines and pushmowers are single cylinder.
Two stroke engines are generally found on smaller things like chainsaws and weed eaters.
You mix special oil into the gas for two strokes. They do produce more smoke, especially when first started.
Nah, most push and riding mowers are definitely 4 stroke. You're absolutely correct that 2 strokes need to burn oil and create some visible smoke (to be properly lubricated). Only small, powered equipment (such as trimmers, blowers, and chainsaws) are still commonly made with 2 strokes. My smoking push mower was made in the mid 1980's and is miraculously still running. It apparently has worn seals that are allowing crankcase oil into the combustion chamber.
I'm not sure you can even buy a two stroke lawnmower. Snowblower, maybe.
Yes, you need to have oil mixed with the gasoline in a two stroke, because the area under the piston (where the crankshaft is) creates the vacuum on the upstroke to draw in the next fuel charge. Lubrication of the crankshaft bearings, then, must come from oil that is in the gasoline, either by premixing it, or from an oil injection system.
A four stroke, on the other hand, uses the top of the cylinder, above the piston, to draw in the next fuel charge through an intake valve, and the area underneath the piston is bathed with oil. Over time, that oil (including its additives) breaks down and loses its lubricity, and must be changed for fresh oil.
I found a Lawn Boy in a barn a few years ago that I'm using. Two stroke from 1979. Infact those engines were also used as air cooled outboard boat motors.
Depends on the engine. Small 2 strokes usually use premix. Big ones, like on scooters or motorcycles, usually have an oil pump and an oil tank. You add oil every few thousand miles.
How often were you changing the oil in your mower? I own an electric lawnmower now, but before that I just changed the oil once at the beginning of each mowing season.
I only changed it once with the extra can I bought with the mower but never since. I'd imagine it easily costing somewhere around 20 to 30 euros a year so that'll pretty much cover a new mower every 10 years.
I had a mower I bought in 2001, took it with me for a few moves. Sometime around 2011 it started sputtering and just take running like crap. Tried to drain it, and it basically took so afternoon. But I got it drained and replaced. The filter had disintegrated.
With the electric mower, I've had it since 2013 or so. The battery is finally starting to show its age but it does still work well enough. Still haven't done anything to it. Might replace the blade soon
I would be cautious with this thought process though. Oil cools, lubricates and cleans the engine. These engines are air cooled so keep that in mind. Degraded oil can't do the job very well.
My neighbor had a crazy old Montgomery Ward tiller, I'd guess from the late 60 or early 70s. I borrowed it once and decided to be nice and change the oil in it since I doubted he ever had. Could not for the life of me figure out how to drain the oil without flipping it over... It's ran for this long on old oil, it'll run for a bit longer!
Most mower engines are 2-strokes, they're designed to burn oil as lubrication basically, it's added to the gas. You don't need to change the oil. Unless it's a 4 stroke engine (unusual due to size/complexity), or you've got a transmission or some other motorized mechanical behavior.
I wouldnt say most are two stroke. In fact most mowers available for purchase at your local hardware store are going to be 4 stroke if not all of them. 2 stroke lawnmowers are a thing of the past. Everyone wants 4 stroke and self propelling now.
Hmmm, I guess that makes sense. It's been a while since I've bought a gas mower, roughly the late 90's/00's hah, been using electric/battery since then.
Genuine question as I haven't actually thought about this, how does that work when you don't have a winter? Where I live it doesn't get below 40° ever, or above 85°. Those are literally the overnight low in Feb, and midday high in Aug/Sep. Do I still need to drain, or just treat it like changing the oil in my car? I.E.: Every 6 months or 3500 miles, whichever comes first.
Like u/possiblylinux127 said, any time you’re not going to use it for more than a month or two, it’s best to drain the fluids. Oil is less important than gas, and you can leave gas in it as well if you add a stabilizer to it.
Personally, I wouldn’t use gas stabilizer for more than one season, but I know many who use it every year with no problem. Just make sure you run the motor with the stabilizer for a few minutes before you store it so the gas in the carburetor doesn’t gum up.
As for oil, I tend to only change it when it looks darker than a piece of burnt toast I’d still be willing to eat. I know that’s vague, but it’s how I do it.